Sailor Chic Meets Speakeasy Sensuality
Review of Ferragamo Fall 2026 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
The Ferragamo woman is the ‘Other Woman.’ The woman whose demeanour never allows her to feel bothered or swayed by outside influences. She is the anti-thesis of try-hard and never feels the need to shout about her status. Not to be construed with belonging to the quiet luxury camp, make no mistake she moves in silence, but her clothes speak volumes.
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Army and Navy, Sailor Style, Casual Consistency, Poiret-Coded
Since joining Ferragamo in 2022, Maximilian Davis has also been quietly building a new design language for the Italian house that was once known only for the quality and craftsmanship of its footwear. With humility and a generosity for the press, not often reciprocated, Davis has none-the-less hunkered down and worked to bring his vision to life and reposition the brand to, not so much compete with the other major Italian players, but to allow it to become a globally recognised creative force for women who lead from the front and want their clothes to enhance that experience.
For fall 2026 a set draped in inky-blue was reflective of the naval tropes which ran through todays collection. But this was not the navy of sailor hats and bell bottoms here what the Ferragamo woman would want to wear was steering the ship. The many characters that would occupy the 1920s underground speakeasys – sailors and officers, fishermen and women -served as inspiration for fall. As was the work of Franklin Booth who documented an illustrated history of these cultural hotbeds. Speaking to The Impression backstage the designer said “We start to look at all these different people in one space. You have the sailors, you have the fisherman and the glamorous girls, the flapper girls and that’s where you see a combination of all these people together.”
The 1920s have become a continuous thread throughout the designers work, building a stable of recognisable silhouettes that will carry the brand forward. And the dropped-waist has played a very significant role in that journey. As the designer communicates visually his mission to liberate women through agile shapes. The first section of the show gave traditional naval outerwear an adaptable edge, with panels and collars peeling away from workhorse styles such as the Peacoat, it was a window into what was to come, and the key role buttons would play as a method of transformation. The lace-up detail on a sailors shirt was reworked as asymmetric cinching on sheer skirt sets and very well-conceived satin shirts. The application of lacing in the way the designer chose to feature it was clever enough that these looks won’t be viewed as costumey. This is particularly true for a very good sweater dress with generous volume, laced front and flap collar to the back. The mid-section highlighted that Davis is mastering casual looks as expertly as his gowns. Workwear influenced shackets in diamond quilted patterns and parkas for men were rendered with glossy leathers. As was seen last season the designers palette selection has been inspired. Combining off-beat hues together – baby blue and mustard, chocolate brown and azure blue, camel and teal – he is starting to really own the communication of signature colours for the brand, colours that go beyond the red, cobalt, and white primary brights from seasons past.
Davis has taken a different approach to occasion dressing while at Ferragamo, the safety of a bias-cut satin dress or sweetheart neckline embellished gown doesn’t interest him. An obsession with the illustriousness of the 1920s, the freedom of its flapper girls, and Paul Poirets sketches expressing the decadence of how women got dressed at the time created some of the most distinctive silhouettes this week i.e, a tapered cocoon coat and pleated dress caught at the ankles with ruching. A style of evening wear that no one else is even coming close to and here Davis so effortlessly presented them as gala-worthy options. These closing looks in accordion pleats and georgettes are ripe for the red carpet but will require a seasoned stylist with vision to execute what Davis’s designs need.
THE QUOTE
We start to look at all these different people in [speakeasy’s]. You have the sailors, you have the fisherman, the glamourous girls, and the flapper girls and that’s where you see a combination of all these people together.
Maximilian Davis, Creative Director, Ferragamo
THE WRAP UP
It has only been three years since the appointment of Maximilian Davis at Ferragamo, and while some may see the designer as still refining a visual identity for the house it is clear that his collections are for women who are self-assured and seek out silhouettes that embolden them in everything they do in their lives without having to shout about it.
In perhaps his strongest outing yet naval references were layered on top of his continued exploration of the 1920s and a colour language that is fast becoming his own. His resistance to play into typical tropes of what eveningwear should present as has also worked in his favour, with today’s pleated maxi dresses caught at the ankle overlaid with Poiret-esque cocoon coats (set to stand any upcoming star apart as one who dares) Davis delivered on a radically different take for a house once defined by its shoes.
