Review of Akris Fall 2023 Fashion Show
The Bucolic and the Bohemian Merge in a Modern Vision for Akris
By Angela Baidoo
Today’s runway presentation marked the continuation of celebrations for the brands significant milestone of 100 years since its founding.
Not seen for a few years, but due for a revival, the 1970s and their heady bohemian influence were a key inspiration for Albert Kriemler’s fall 2023 collection. But it was not simply about the overall aesthetic, as when the designer spoke with The Impression backstage he expanded that “The seventies were an era of self-liberation, and I wanted to go back to that period because the seeds of change for women were planted”. And as the 1970s were such a pivotal moment of change for women, now too is the time to tap into the era and look at it with fresh eyes. Considering how the silhouettes and sensibility of the time gave women a sense of freedom and a spirit of self-expression.
[The 1970s] were a moment when women got out into the street, and into their businesses, and that I believe is a very modern way to get dressed for today
Albert Kriemler, Creative Director, Akris
That manifested itself within this collection as wide leg trousers, relaxed layering, roomy outerwear and the everyday ease of a boho maxi dress. This collection was refreshing in contrast to the ultra-luxe minimalist looks that have dominated the season, as this vision from Kreimler is also about dressing for real life, showing that there can be another side to stealth wealth and real women dressing for the real world.
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Combining elements of the bucolic with an opening section of looks that would not be out-of-place in a country setting, a graphic plaid pattern (in both camel and brown) was used for soft tailored suits and car coats or boxy jackets, which came with co-ordinating skirts. Styled with chunky hiking or knee-high boots, this was the ‘freedom’ to which Kreimler was alluding, as for all aspects of a woman’s life she has the autonomy to be ready for anything.
Modern bohemia, which for fall 2023 looked like an exciting line-up of tonal graphic florals in a burnt amber and khaki green. This season though, that floral, rather than just a being part of a new print development, had a special significance, as the designer revealed “Often it is the architectural shape that sparks my designs. This time, it was the subtle, abstract beauty of a floral that caught my eye. A print from Abraham’s 1976 collection discovered in the Akris archive”. Worked across mini dresses, 70s-infleunced trouser sets, and an update of the boho dress. Given a sultry new edge within this collection we saw variations of the dress printed with the ‘Abraham Flower’ but with a sheer chiffon as its base, perfect for layering or worn in a risqué way, with just a shearling gilet as a modesty cover. These dresses will mark a welcome shift back to the best of the 1970s and may also be signalling the beginnings of a revival.
The expertise of a brand that has been in business for a century, was evident in the mastering of all the ways in which texture could be harnessed for the season. Shearling and curly furs came in sumptuous shades of plum, a deep amber, and charcoal grey for longline gilets, cropped boxy jackets, and patchwork fur coats. While maximalist blanket scarves almost swaddled the models and featured the floral print in a tonal colourway. And velvet, in the hands of Kreimler looked the best it has been when considering the ways it has been utilised this season. A particular call-out would be the dark olive jersey maxi dress, floating across the body – fitted across the top and flaring out at the hem – this look also came with matching platform boots. A touch with will not only elongate the silhouette, but give the look an enticing allure.
Casualisation is important today [for women], we need to break the rules, just as the seventies were breaking the rules, and the shoes play an enormous role here, they look fine when worn classic, but they really look most modern when you twist the accessories
Albert Kriemler, Creative Director, Akris
Re-branding via clean ‘sans serif’ fonts and minimalist logos has been many a luxury brands way to signify a re-positioning or new start via a new creative director, but for Akris a trip to the archives provided a graphic design inspired by the 1970s (a retro repeat font), which was used across both the shows invitation, and several looks within the collection. Blown up or dissected to just feature the first few letters of the brand name, this was a fun intermission, which showed the breadth of the inspiration that the 1970s can provide. Look out for the deconstructed logo on the tailored suit, complete with multi-coloured stripe across the trousers, featured in an editorial soon.
This collection, not only stands as a sartorial homage to women but is a recognition of the brands milestone of reaching 100 years. There is also the prospect of further celebrations to come with an exhibition set to take place in Zurich this May.