In a Flou State at Akris
Review of Akris Spring 2025 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Luminousity, grounding, pragmatism, flou
A sweetness and light have taken a hold this season, and at Akris that translated to “Flou and pragmatism”, with creative director Albert Kriemler describing it as “carving shape into cloth” in todays notes. The lines of the once sharp Akris silhouette were left to loop and wrap and flow to reveal the “poetic work of human hands”. Not just found in the precision of a sharp cut, but also in shaping fabric – of a diaphanous nature – around the body.
The lightness (or Flou – a technical term which translates to the construction techniques which sit outside of tailoring) of the collections maxi dresses and wispy skirts – made from multi-layers of Panama organza or “techno grid” – were not developed to be saved for special occasions. This is where the reference to pragmatism came in, as Kriemler told The Impression backstage that each piece was just as viable for the woman who wants to go about her daily life, through a grounding in sportswear and sleek trenches, saying “What does it help when we create sheerness that cannot be worn?
His palette also reflected the state of luminosity that he wanted to achieve this season. Inspired by a fascination with Andrea Mantegna’s Camera degli Sposi “It was there that I found myself in a room painted in fresco – full of light and life” and it was his imagining of the artist Mantegna simply adding a touch of cream to each colour that led the designer to select a palette which created the same effect. Shades of almost translucent pastel tones provided a base for the 3D jacquards and fine gauzy knitwear, with raffia – a piece of which came with each show invitation – was referred to as the “fabric of the moment” in todays notes and introduced the first set of looks to ground the over-arching theme of airy luminousness.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
I wanted to create a luminosity with two and three layers of different linings. I felt it was the perfect season to play with that second and third dimension in layering. I mixed fabrics, starting with georgette, then came tulle, then came ribbon”
Albert Kriemler, creative director, Akris
THE WRAP UP
Responding – as many designers have – with a lightness to combat the current heaviness of the world, Akris has for spring 2025 presented a collection that is both light, yet grounded in pragmatism and an acknowledgement that yes sheers are trending, but what is their use if they cannot be worn like any other part of a modern wardrobe.
This is where the designers consciousness of “a woman in action” always ensures that his collections are based in reality. As he told The Impression “When we get into the feminine frivolity, it needs to be there with the pragmatism of today, it was important for me to add a sportswear jacket, trench, or parka to make it real.”
