Sculpting Movement & Shaping Sensuality
Review of Alaïa Fall 2025 Fashion Show
By Mackenzie Richard
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Kinetic Sculptures, Sensuality Reimagined, & Protection and Presence
Pieter Mulier’s vision for Alaïa Spring 2025 was rooted in fluidity, movement, and a deep understanding of the body as kinetic sculpture. Strong silhouettes emphasized hips, shoulders, and necklines, reinforcing Alaïa’s legacy of sculpting the female form with precision. There was a sense of both protection and sensuality at play—draped hoods and enveloping fabrics suggested a quiet strength, while second-skin garments clung to curves with deliberate ease.
The movement of the collection was truly mesmerizing, with pleats and drapes animating the garments, making them feel alive as they shifted with each step. Hoods framed the face like a portrait, playing with the duality of concealment and revelation, while structured padding gave an added sense of strength and poise. The color palette was bold yet refined, ensuring that the collection carried an editorial impact while maintaining a timeless elegance.
At its core, this collection may represent a new definition of sensuality for the brand. Rather than relying on convention, it explored body consciousness in a more intimate, almost sculptural way. Garments acted as a second skin, shaping and shielding the wearer, reinforcing the idea that beauty is both soft and strong. Mulier’s references, ranging from Greco-Roman drapery to North African influences and early couture techniques, blended together seamlessly, suggesting that fashion, like culture, is an evolving synthesis of history and modernity.
Yet, while Mulier’s poetic vision spoke to timelessness and fluidity, the overarching message at times felt elusive. The collection leaned into artistic abstraction rather than a clear narrative, which, while intriguing, left some room for a stronger sense of intent. The execution was undeniably elegant, though at moments, the silhouettes—hoods, draping, sculpted body-conscious forms—felt more like a refinement of Alaïa’s familiar language rather than a bold evolution forward. The house’s sculptural identity remains intact, but this season’s approach felt quieter, more introspective, perhaps at the expense of a truly defining moment.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Mulier’s Alaïa continues to embrace a poetic, sculptural approach to dressing, where clothing is not just worn but lived in, shaped by the body and its movement. There was a quiet confidence in this collection, a focus on how fashion can be both protective and liberating, structured yet fluid. Yet, for a house built on sculptural innovation, this season felt more like an elegant continuation rather than a disruptive statement. While some pieces carried undeniable presence, there was no singular showstopping moment—a piece that immediately defined the collection. Still, in its subtlety, Alaïa’s power endures, proving that fashion does not always need to shout in order to leave a lasting impression.
