Italian Unions Oppose Job Cuts Affecting 54 Employees As Kering Pushes Profitability Plan Across The Brand
Alexander McQueen is proceeding with a series of layoffs as part of a broader restructuring effort, prompting opposition from Italian labor unions and renewed scrutiny of the brand’s turnaround strategy.
Unions Filctem Cgil, Femca Cisl, and Uiltec Uil said Friday that 54 out of 181 employees in Italy are set to be made redundant, stating they “express strong preoccupation and strong opposition in regards to a decision that risks having an extremely relevant social impact.”
In response, the Kering-owned brand confirmed “the opening of collective redundancy procedures, affecting the brand’s activities in Italy.” The company added that “this difficult decision is consistent with the strategic review of our global operations announced in November and part of the group-wide effort to restore the business to sustainable profitability over the next three years, while laying the foundations for its long-term future.”
Alexander McQueen said it “will continue to engage with our employees and their representatives during this critical period and remain committed to supporting them throughout the process and the transition.”
The redundancies follow earlier concerns raised in January, when union representatives at the company’s Italian sites in Scandicci, Novara, and Parabiago warned of potential impacts on production and employment. On Friday, the unions reiterated those concerns, pointing to “the very significant reduction” in headcount and warning of “hefty consequences not only for those directly involved and their families, but also for the organization of the work, for the overall stability of the company and for the production and supply pipeline it is connected to.”
They called for “a serious, transparent and in-depth” dialogue with the company “aimed at verifying all the possible solutions that will allow to reduce or avoid the layoffs that have been announced,” suggesting measures such as social safety nets, internal mobility programs, and outplacement services.
The cuts form part of a wider restructuring under Kering, which has been reassessing the position of Alexander McQueen within its portfolio. In February, chief executive officer Luca de Meo outlined the scale of the challenge, citing years of losses driven by rapid retail expansion and an overreliance on sneakers, which at one point accounted for 80 percent of revenues.
De Meo said more than half of the brand’s 135 stores could be closed “without mercy,” with some locations potentially reassigned to other labels within the group. “What do you want me to do? I don’t run a charity,” he said. “We have to make [tough] decisions, but we obviously respect the history and the potential of the brand.”
While a sale of the brand has been considered unlikely, Kering has signaled its intention to reposition McQueen through tighter operational control and a clearer product strategy. The restructuring also aligns with a broader effort across the group to define the role and identity of each house within its portfolio.
Alexander McQueen has faced persistent challenges in recent years, including during the tenure of Sarah Burton, who led the brand for over a decade before departing for Givenchy. She was succeeded by Seán McGirr, whose appointment marked a new creative direction for the house.
Financially, the brand is reported within Kering’s “other houses” division alongside Balenciaga, Boucheron, and Qeelin. The segment posted a 3 percent increase in revenue in the fourth quarter of last year, though McQueen’s individual performance has lagged behind some of its peers.
The current restructuring builds on a strategic review launched in October, which also put up to 55 London-based roles at risk—representing roughly 20 percent of head office staff. At the time, the company confirmed it had entered into a consultation process with affected employees, signaling the likelihood of further cuts.
As the restructuring progresses, the tension between financial recovery and workforce impact remains central, with unions continuing to push for alternatives while the company moves ahead with plans to stabilize the business.