Amiri On Revitalising the Hollywood Era of American Luxury
Review of Amiri Spring 2025 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
What is American Luxury? This is a time when there is no true dedicated men’s fashion week showcase in New York and its definition is even being questioned legally. As the Federal Trade Commission has moved to block Tapestry Inc’s acquisition of Capri Holdings who own Versace, Jimmy Choo and Michael Kors, with the case being stalled as the FTC works to clarify the exact definition of ‘Accessible Luxury’.
In light of this, Mike Amiri has been building on a fresh narrative for his namesake brand Amiri. A narrative that looks to old Hollywood through film and music to extract its signature silhouettes for his modern-day Rat Pack. But as with many contemporary streetwear brands who started with a foundation built on graphic logo T-shirts and tracksuits, as well as statement sneakers, the desire to move on after a sustained period of growth – whether due to market conditions or personal life changes – can be met with resistance as retailers may be reluctant to give up their cash cows and demand more of the same, without truly attempting to invest in this new direction. A quick review of luxury’s most popular e-commerce sites confirms that the way in which the Amiri brand is being bought still skews towards sports and streetwear, with the odd tailored suit or short-sleeve resort shirt added for variety. In doing so multi-brand luxury retailers are missing out on leading on the new vision of the Amiri brand. As the founder outlined in today’s show notes he is dedicated to moving onto the next chapter.
Immersed in old-school American luxury, Amiri is merging California cool with the loose uniform of jazz musicians. Evolving his Hollywood icon influences from last season it’s now the turn of the Jazz musician made modern, and as if to drive home the point select attendees were gifted a mini snare drum (that also showed up as mini accessories) which hinted to the special guest performer at today’s show, who turned out to be one of the most exciting live artists of his genre Yussef Dayes, who was invited to the show to perform.
Amiri’s exploration of the styling choices of the “mid-century jazz and Big Band idols” reinvents casual staples such as the knitted vest, bomber jacket, and tailored blazer into a new form of mens couture with the addition of artisanal embellishment. While denim comes slightly flared and trench coats are long and loose in rich colours, and the only nod to a graphic T-shirt came as a fitted-style with the slogan “Jazz Hideaway”, a million miles away from the graphic sweats of the brands initial offering and that, it has to be said, is no bad thing.
THE BUZZWORDS
Modern male icons, old Hollywood, Reengineered vintage
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #27
A look which embraces the new direction of the Amiri brand, as this iconic look in the cannon of men’s style takes 1970s inspired vintage layering and re-invents it for 2025.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
This collection is a continuation of an American conversation – a reflection of American luxury, of the Hollywood DNA of AMIRI. The clothes fuse stage presence with an irreverent, everyday cool – a California mentality of dress, translated to the Paris runway. It’s about Modern Jazz – meaning both the music, and an attitude.”
– Mike Amiri, creative director, Amiri
THE WRAP UP
There are many archetypes doing the rounds across the season, so men will have their pick of how they want to dress come spring 2025. But Mike Amiri’s vintage-inspired ode to old Hollywood is a stand-out if only for the reason that not many others are bringing this style back to the forefront in a way that is also accessible. The myriad of front row guests from the worlds of music, sports, and film were all confidently wearing the brand, in everything from fluffy mint coloured knitwear to foulard-printed double shorts suiting and embellished bombers. One can only hope that this new look transfers to the mainstream soon.
