On a Lighter Note at Vivienne Westwood
Review of Andreas Kronthaler For Vivienne Westwood Spring 2025 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Re-assess, lightness of being, scaling back
There was a lighter undertone to todays spring 2025 collection from Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood. From his choice of fabric to the way he cut his shapes, the historically-coded feminine strength that has always given the brand an edge came across a lot more youthful today. And in the notes accompanying the show, the designer said this was the exact space he had found himself in when designing his latest womenswear collection “The focus this season became womenswear, which put me on a new road. Fashion is about beauty and joy; it links us to each other, which is important for the world we live in.”
The notes also began with the words “To adjust, to measure, to assess…” and in this way he has aligned with how many other designers have approached the season. Without the need to make dramatic changes, but also aware of the need for something to change. Has resulted in small shifts across the board, enabling us to see the same brands in a new light. Be it a straighter silhouette, where once only fitted would do, or the addition of vibrant colour in an otherwise steadfastly monochromatic palette. Sometimes minor adjustments are all that is needed for a refresh.
Westwood was still there of course, but this collection was an exercise in restraint to let the brands classic visual elements shine through. This could be seen in the full skirts underpinned with crinoline in both a shocking neon pink, but also a cream, the former paired with the brands best-selling draped neck corset top in pink. Super-fine and crinkled knits patched together with exposed seams, fluid tailoring, billowing blouses, and mis-matched textures.
In this lightening of the mood, there is an acknowledgment that it is something we all need in these troubled times. Which doesn’t mean giving way to our values, just that they can be fought in the background. This fight was found in today’s notes that encouraged readers to sign a petition for friend of the house Captain Paul Watson – a marine wildlife conservationist and environmental activist who is facing “extradition for his anti-whaling campaigns”. Rest and resistance in equal measure.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
The focus this season became womenswear which put me on a new road. Ultra feminine and rather elegant in the most classic way”
Andreas Kronthaler, creative director, Vivienne Westwood
THE WRAP UP
Toning down while losing none of what makes Westwood a “classic” among its fans, next season we can expect a lighter touch in sheer fabric, crinkle knits, and free-form silhouettes all underpinned with their signature corsetry where needed. Always known to fight the good fight, its illuminating to see Andreas Kronthaler let the light in.
