Artifacts Of A Gesture
Review of Bach Mai Spring 2024 Fashion Show
By Mario Abad
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Bach Mai dedicated this show to his father, who recently passed away, and cited his utilitarian workwear (he was a Vietnamese refugee) as a starting point, reimagined through his couture lens. There were less of his usual exaggerated shapes and ball gowns and more of an elongated silhouette inspired by the traditional Vietnamese Áo Dài dress. He also emphasized human emotion as a push against the prevailing AI trends of late, focusing on gestures like distorted draping and gathered skirts. The prints were all shown with their inverted versions to represent the “duality of life/afterlife.”
THE BUZZWORDS
Sharp. Romantic. Utility.
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #35
This look captures Mai’s penchant for drama and high-impact imagery but keeps things grounded with an ivory palette and no prints — just a focus on the twisting detail in the front, sweeping train, and sheet underskirt.
THE DIRECTION
Bach Mai showed in a moody and dimly lit square space inside the DiMenna Center for Classical Music where a guitarist played in front of a makeshift pond.
THE QUOTE
It’s a memorial for my father who just passed away. A collection to honor him, my Vietnamese heritage, the memorialization of gesture, and the duality of life and afterlife.
Bach Mai
THE WRAP UP
Bach Mai has quickly come a long way since his first presentation, which he held through appointments in a friend’s Chelsea townhouse. He’s since been stocked by places like Neiman Marcus and became a finalist for a CFDA Fashion Award. As far as runway debuts go, this outing was a more subdued offering than what some may have expected, considering his couture-like sensibilities and past hits like his sculpted, Charles James-esque ball skirts. But considering the tragic inspiration behind this collection and Mai’s growing retail chops, it’s an intriguing start to where he can go as he continues to build his brand’s identity.
