Anything But Standard
Review of Balenciaga Fall 2025 Fashion Show
By Mackenzie Richard
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Distorted Uniformity, Refined Rebellion
At Balenciaga, fashion has always been an exercise in subversion—of proportion, perception, and power. For Fall 2025, Demna set his sights on the idea of “standardization,” asking: What defines a wardrobe essential, and how far can it be pushed before it becomes something new? The collection, presented in a maze-like backstage corridor, reflected this interrogation, distorting archetypal garments—businesswear, workwear, eveningwear—just enough to challenge their traditional definitions.
In an era where fashion is once again embracing tailoring and uniform dressing, the question arises: When Balenciaga takes on these codes, does its signature deconstruction breathe new life into them, or does it reinforce what we already expect from the house? Can reinvention happen through refinement, or does subversion eventually risk becoming its own kind of formula? With this collection, Demna sought to navigate these tensions, offering a vision that was as much about control as it was about disruption. But in refining Balenciaga’s language, the collection leaned less on shock value and more on precision, proving that restraint can be just as radical as excess. The subversion here was quieter—found in tailoring that exaggerated in ways that felt purposeful rather than performative, and in utilitarian elements elevated to couture-level craftsmanship.
Yet, the question remains: How does this push the conversation forward for Balenciaga? If recent seasons have been about reinforcing the house’s core aesthetic—oversized silhouettes, dystopian uniform dressing, the interplay of high and low—then this collection felt like an exercise in refinement rather than reinvention. But perhaps that’s the point. By stripping away some of the irony and excess, Demna may be laying the groundwork for a more distilled vision of Balenciaga—one that doesn’t rely on provocation to stay relevant, but instead trusts in the strength of its construction and the quiet radicalism of rethinking the everyday.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Balenciaga’s Fall collection wasn’t a radical departure from its established codes, nor did it set out to be. Instead, it honed in on refining and recalibrating what the house has already established—a study in controlled distortion rather than outright reinvention. In a season where workwear and tailoring have been recurring motifs across multiple brands, Balenciaga’s take stood out for its distinct perspective. The collection questioned the very notion of a “standard” wardrobe—not by rejecting it outright, but by reshaping it in ways that forced us to reconsider what power dressing, uniformity, and luxury mean today.
Adding a layer of intrigue, the show’s invitation came in the form of a perfume sample—a nod to Balenciaga’s rich olfactory heritage, which began with the launch of ‘Le Dix’ in 1947. This gesture raises the question: Is the house hinting at a new fragrance launch? The timing is noteworthy, especially as Louis Vuitton has recently announced its venture into beauty, appointing Dame Pat McGrath as Cosmetics Creative Director. As more luxury brands expand into the beauty sector, Balenciaga’s scented invitation could signify its intention to reassert its presence in this arena, blending its fashion narrative with sensory experiences.
The result was a collection that felt undeniably Balenciaga, yet with a more nuanced and introspective edge. There is always a fine line between refinement and repetition, between evolution and predictability—and in many ways, this collection sat on that line. Balenciaga didn’t reinvent the wheel this season, but perhaps it didn’t need to. Instead, it reminded us that fashion’s true subversion doesn’t always come from shock—it can come from the quiet, meticulous act of reshaping the familiar.
