Demna Leaves Us Wanting More at Balenciaga
Review of Balenciaga Spring 2025 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Body ‘Suits’, spliced silhouettes, low-rise, corsetry-closures, subverted collars
Demna’s choice of Britney Spears hit song “Gimme More” (an original mix composed by BFRND) as todays soundtrack meant the creative director was in a defiant mood. Always one to kick up the dust, today Demna was determined to give us more. More volume, more bodycon, more subversion, and more conversation-starters.
Upon entrance of the Balenciaga black box set (calling back to the show’s invitation of a black velvet ring box, with a personalised engraved ‘gold’ band inside), a dining table was set-up in place of the traditional runway, with a select few invited to dine on a feast for their eyes, sitting as they were ‘on’ the runway, while editors, buyers, and clients watched on from the raised seating. Taking this seasons trending theme of wearing inner layers on the outside, there was no attempt at coyness here as models were stripped down and ready for the boudoir in lace teddy’s, suspenders, and bras. But it wouldn’t be Balenciaga without a subversive twist, and as if to show how wearing lingerie in the same way as a knitted sweater is completely logical, each model was fitted with a flesh-toned body-stocking – ‘modesty’ done the Balenciaga way. Look 3 had a trompe l’oeil effect combining printed lingerie and an embroidered overlay. And guaranteed to sell-out are the tights printed with lace panties and suspenders, if only for the novelty factor of pretending to leave the house sans-pants. However the brand may have to add a disclaimer to each purchase that they will not be responsible for any arrests for indecent exposure.
So far, so expected but where we saw the theme breaking out-of-the-ordinary was with the “corset-style tight lacing closures” accompanying the brands signature waisted dresses – that were Tradwife in the front and kink-couture in the back. These looks which implemented oversized corsetry may just be what will refuel interest in Demna’s vision for the brand, outside of the youth-driven streetwear element, which sure enough followed this high point.
Tapping into his earliest memories of fashion, when the designer put on whimsical fashion shows on his grandmothers kitchen table, as the notes revealed he was looking to his childhood when he first began to see himself in this industry. Whether or not he envisioned working for one of luxury fashions most important houses, what he was determined to do today was pay tribute to fashion that has a point-of-view, and love it or hate it, it sparks conversation.
For spring 2025, discussions are likely to revolve around his blown-up silhouettes that take from the streetwear scene but appear to project the POV that was promised in todays notes. Trench coats became bombers with the front scooped up and around the head to create an innovative hybrid. His splicing and piling on of wardrobe staples into a single garment continued from last season with the shoulders of jackets acting as make-shift coat-racks at a dinner party – for the number of additional jackets which had been added. Demna also developed outerwear with what at first appeared as extreme funnel-necks, but were in fact a surreal take on the collar detail, as the notes confirmed they were “Medici-style stand collars constructed out of five-pocket jeans”. In his finale looks he also played with his atypical high-shine spandex pantashoes by pairing it with another innovation in the form of “flexible spandex wrapped nylon” that had no back fastening and would simply hug the wearers body to stay affixed.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
My early memories of fashion start with me drawing looks on cardboard, cutting them out and making ‘fashion shows’ on my grandma’s kitchen table. Thirty-five years later, this show re-connects me to the beginning of my vision. It’s a tribute to fashion that has a point-of-view”
Demna, creative director, Balenciaga
THE WRAP UP
One of his less gimmicky shows, todays Balenciaga collection was a fully engaging production for the way in which Demna subverted silhouettes and challenged our thinking of how to style everyday staples, which didn’t need any unnecessary pop culture references or stunts to pull off, other than the dining table-meets-catwalk showpiece that was enough of a talking point, meaning the clothes remained the topic of conversation. Which for a fashion house, is as it should be.
