Walter Chiapponi Wakes Up Blumarine
Review of Blumarine Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Mark Wittmer
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
It’s been an era of debuts for many of the Italian fashion houses, but Walter Chiapponi’s first show at Blumarine was one where we didn’t have a clear idea of what to expect. It feels like quite a shift to move from the timeless sophistication of Tod’s to Blumarine’s retro, youthful, often sexy, and – especially under previous creative director Nicola Brognano – Y2K energy.
But Chiapponi made this transition with agility, offering a convincing – although not entirely forceful – vision of what Blumarine can be moving forward.
We actually got a hint of what the house’s renewed spirit might be in its Spring 2024 ad campaign, which, while it featured Brognano’s designs, featured creative direction from Chiapponi. The intimate portraits of young Berliners who seem to have just returned from a night out and are about to hit the hay offer an intriguing look at the liminal space between celebratory fashion performance and the everyday reality out of which it extends.
Today’s collection felt similarly transitional, offering a taste of eclectic personal style that layered together comfy classics with luxurious and romantic statements of sophistication. Lacy slip dresses and statement leather coats rubbed shoulders with cute cardigans and leather jackets. A sculptural floral appliqué top was brought back down to earth by faded blue jeans. Sheer ruffled dresses recalled the brand’s 90s runways.
A bit of Brognano’s McBling was still present, but rather than being the dominant flavor, it felt like one ingredient in a more balanced dish. That Y2K boldness helped the brand become very buzzed about on TikTok during Gen Z’s revival of the aesthetic – but, considering the cost of living crisis and zoomers’ penchant for thrifting, it didn’t necessarily translate to sales. Chiapponi’s new chapter may be the push the house needs. While the styling and casting feels youthfully eclectic, many of the classic-with-a-twist pieces here are actually quite wearable and accessible for a broad range of ages, styles, and tastes.
THE BUZZWORDS
Eclectic. Coquettish. Nostalgic.
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #21
The collection didn’t have any jaw-dropping looks, but there’s just something effective and fresh about the combination of bright yellow leather opera gloves, a prim yet subtly elongated cardigan, and a low-slung skirt that encapsulates the collection’s spirit of youthfully reconsidered vintage-store sophistication.
THE DIRECTION
One of the most striking aspects of the show was in fact its makeup look. Red eye shadow was deployed to make the models look very sleepy, which gives them the appearance of having just woken up from an overlong nap or heading out after a sleepless night. The strange yet effective choice pushes the feeling of off-the-cuff dressing, suggesting a character who free-spiritedly throws together looks from a carefully curated closet.
THE WRAP UP
Chiapponi’s debut collection didn’t revolutionize Blumarine or have us clamoring to see more of a visionary new chapter. But it did lay a strong foundation for a refreshed spirit of exploration and intimacy, bringing to the brand’s reputation for nostalgic glamor a more grounded and conversational character that we are excited to see get developed.
