Technical Brilliance Meets Casual Romanticism at Daniel Lee’s Burberry
Review of Burberry Spring 2025 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Technical brilliance, casual romance, refined glamour
As Daniel Lee hits his stride at Burberry, it’s becoming clear that his steer for the house lies in marrying technical brilliance with an adventurous type of casual romance.
Set in the brutalist surroundings of the National Theatre the stark space leant itself to the collections industrial palette and was also a natural choice as Burberry puts its commitment to the arts front and centre. So much so the set design – large scale fabric panels with geometric cut-outs – was part of an exclusive collaboration with artist Gary Hume whose “modernist works, [contrasted) with the lightness of the collection.” as highlighted in todays show notes.
Building his own mini eco-system of brand (and creative director) enthusiasts that are disseminating his vision slowly but surely to the masses, todays audience reflected a broad sweep of familiar faces, up-and-coming talent, of course the k-pop co-hort and stars of the big and small screen. From actors Olivia Coleman, Barry Keoghan and South Korean actor Son Suk-ku to music artists Normani, Jack Harlow and Dua Lipa to Olympic athlete Keely Hodgkinson and England footballer Declan Rice.
And dare I say it, but a little bit of the Burberry magic – from its early noughties heyday when it had successfully turned the tide in its perception and become a covetable British luxury brand once again – had returned. The reworked trench coats worked side-by-side with the more glamorous looks, but it was dressing-up done in that very British of ways, so a little off-kilter but still refined – think casual parkas over sequin fringed cocktail dresses. The capelet midi dress with open back and overlaid panels was particularly good – even more so when it reappeared in kumquat. This is the kind of dress that will have passers by enquiring as to where it was acquired, which is always a marker of a brand making waves in the market. In this case, Lee also needs to ensure his designs are distinctive enough to become recognisably Burberry, if he is to leave his mark during his tenure. But back to the dresses and a draped jersey look on plus size model Alva Claire was a technique the designer should continue to explore as the casual nature of the – on first glance – viscose jersey was elevated through draping and twisting it around the body before folding it under the hem. This could have been an entire section of its own, spun out into other categories – now a draped jersey trench! That would put Burberry on the map and for all the reasons the C-Suite would kill for.
In pop culture there has been a push to make the return of Indie Sleaze happen. And with those shrunken leather jackets, which already look well worn and reminiscent of Agyness Deans time as the face of Burberry, Daniel Lee is offering the Gen Z kids an instant fix.
The men’s side of today’s collection leaned heavily into hybridising technical utility with British heritage, applying taped seams and waterproof zips to those industrial-coloured checks. Creating safari jackets and parkas that are built for life in the country and tap into the idea of heritage, while being fully aware that the closest this highly functional outerwear is likely to get to the great outdoors is at a festival. Nevertheless the idea that you could wear it for outdooring, while boasting that it’s from Burberry will attract new male consumers, especially if being worn and promoted by the male stars who made up the front row.
As ubiquitous as the cargo pant has become, a special mention has to be made for the utility pants rendered in silk, technical cotton and cotton canvas. Another reference to the early aughts but here they were stripped of the multiple pockets (because who truly needs that many) and paraphernalia which normally characterises the style and given just enough slouch at the hem to look renewed. Although those low-rise waists may prove challenging for some they will pair perfectly with the woven blouses with co-ordinating draped neck scarves.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
In this Daniel Lee’s fourth outing for Burberry, and following the departure of CEO Dan Akeroyd ,it was business as usual for the designer as he continued building his aesthetic codes for the brand. Today there was a strong showing of his grasp of re-working Burberry’s bread winner I.e the trench coat, but the shrunken biker jackets and party-ready parkas show how their outerwear will work for any occasion. While the dresses and neck—detail blouses will be the true sleeper hits as these may help the brands new design handwriting to stand alone and finally find a dedicated fan base.
