Veronica Leoni Delivers a Strong Start to the New Era
Review of Calvin Klein Fall 2025 Fashion Show
By Mark Wittmer
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Minimal. Sculptural. Powerful. Subtly sensual.
Don’t call it a comeback: while the debut of Veronica Leoni as the creative director of Calvin Klein Collection – the brand’s first runway show since Raf Simons’ final showing in 2018 – certainly feels like a new chapter, it’s far more of a confident continuation of the brand’s trajectory of drawing from its iconic 90s aesthetic than something like a creative revolution.
The first hint of this nod toward the brand’s 90s era was a rare appearance at the runway by Calvin Klein himself, who posed with two of his most iconic 90s muses, Christie Turlington and Kate Moss. Bridging past and present, also in attendance were defining stars of today, like Bad Bunny and Kendall Jenner, the latter of whom walked in the show.
But attention was turned squarely on the clothes themselves. At a time when New York is hurting for a lack of tentpole brands that can and will commit to showing consistently each season, the return of Calvin Klein felt like an extremely promising announcement, and Leoni proved to have her finger on the pulse. Oversized outerwear and sculptural minimalism carried the collection – all key characteristics of the current output of the brands where Leoni worked previously, like Jil Sander, Celine (alongside Phoebe Philo), and The Row.
But these brands are all drawing in turn from Calvin Klein himself, who defined that vision of oversized, minimal, direct, subtly sensual power.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
“As a designer, I have always been deeply inspired by Calvin Klein, and the chance to write this
next chapter for the brand is a one-of-a-kind opportunity. My goal is to define an ultimate and definitive expression of
monumental minimalism and pureness through shape and craft, bringing Mr. Klein’s original
vision and distinctive approach into the current day.”
THE WRAP UP
Leoni has succeeded in her mission: the DNA of Calvin Klein’s era-defining vision is present, but seen anew through a contemporary lens. But while Calvin has been away from the runway, a number of brands have been perfecting that vision, and it’s not clear yet whether this revival is doing enough to carve out a niche in the space and to drive desirability. It was a solid foundation, and we’re looking forward to seeing how Leoni might build on it to truly reclaim the brand’s position as a pioneering force in fashion.
