Finding Confidence in Nonchalance at Carven
Review of Carven Spring 2025 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Filtered, falling away, internal affairs
When clothes fall away it’s often to do with an act of sensuality, in Louise Trotter’s role as creative director at Carven, folds softly gather and are used to create new forms around a woman’s body for lightly layered living. Geometric structures in crisp or lightweight fabrics open up at the side and back. Made from boxy panelled pattern pieces that are stitched together – sometimes with generous borders that sit proudly away from the body – in their original form, there is very little attempt to follow the natural anatomical lines or create curves that may indicate overt sexiness, everything the designer puts out feels organic.
It is obvious that in the Carven woman, Trotter sees an entity who dresses for her own pleasure. With no hard and fast separation between day and night her wardrobe choices have to be purposeful, as well as practical to see her through whatever situation she may find herself. So far, Trotter’s tenure has been one of an undoing, her collections are open – both in appeal and construction. As a back is often left exposed in an absent-minded way that is intentional, and intentionally good.
In choosing the salon style format there was a return to taking the time to actually slowly observe a collection, how it moves, where the hidden details are – and yes – those unexpected moments when something special is revealed in the reverse. In having each model walk through “The entrance, the salon, bedroom, dressing room, kitchen” it was much simpler to understand how different parts of the home, “mirror[ing] the rituals of life and living” as a Carven woman, and how what she wears is affected by her surroundings. It also enables an understanding of the “touch of the human hand” as the designer conveyed in todays notes is something that is “essential in [her] work”.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
There is something very personal in the act of designing and creating clothes. It is our daily activity: a dialogue between the studio, the atelier and the Carven woman.”
Louise Trotter, creative director, Carven
THE WRAP UP
Louise Trotter understands the need to communicate how important the process is for her when conceiving a collection, which made todays show location all the more relevant. Inviting us into the very space where her designs are conceived enables for an understanding of the journey from head to hand, cutting table to collection.
