Paris When It Sizzles
Review of Carven Spring 2026 Fashion Show
By Mackenzie Richard Zuckerman
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Cohesive Refinement & Safe Momentum
At times this may read more like a strategy brief than a show review — a hazard, perhaps, of caring so much about Carven’s untapped potential. Under Louise Trotter, the house consistently earned its place among our top 10 shows of the season, proving it could be a standout voice in Paris. Today, with Mark Thomas at the helm, the question isn’t just what he put on the runway, but what kind of house Carven is becoming.
The collection offered a clean, accessible wardrobe of staples to be loved for years — modern, architectural, and approachable, with a nonchalant air. A quasi–slip dress gave a note of provocation, its elegance hinting at where Carven could push further. Yet as the clothes unfolded, it felt less like a declaration of identity than a careful calibration of one. Carven has always thrived when precision meets play — a language of pragmatic Parisian chic sharpened with sly detail.
In a season full of debuts and directional statements, Carven invited us to ask: who is the Carven woman of today, and what space will she claim on the global stage? The runway offered early clues, and in the conclusion ahead I’ll explore how this moment could set the stage for something much larger.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
If Thomas played it safe this season, he did so with polish. The cohesion was undeniable, but cohesion without tension can flatten into quietness. A few avant-garde gestures, sharper color explorations, or a bolder accessory statement would give the collection the spark it needs to stand apart.
What could truly propel Carven into the next league is a multi-front push: accessories as engines (a sculptural bag or inventive footwear line to anchor the wardrobe), a visual world that extends beyond fragrance (witty campaigns, cultural touchpoints, a set design language), calculated international outreach — Parisian clarity refracted through New York energy, Los Angeles ease, or even unexpected cultural collaborations. Carven’s opportunity lies in translating the Parisian woman for audiences far from the Right Bank; her appeal grows stronger when discovered in new contexts, where she becomes both an ideal and an invitation.
Madame Carven built her name on inclusivity and pragmatism; in today’s climate, those values are ripe for reinvention. This collection was a thoughtful start — but the real opportunity is larger. With Louise Trotter now at Bottega Veneta, the spotlight has shifted, and Carven finds itself uniquely positioned to step forward. It could emerge as a kind of think-tank house — a laboratory of smart ideas, rooted in strong codes, that earn it a place alongside peers like Chloé or Loewe. But to get there Carven must harness its heritage while taking calculated risk. The blueprint is there. The next step is scale.
