COS’ Sophisticated Choreography
Review of COS Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Mark Wittmer
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Sensible. Classic. Subtly expressive.
COS’ latest runway show sees H&M’s more sophisticated sister brand continue to explore its place on the runway, working to incorporate a stronger sense of artisanship and perspective into its focused brand of architectural minimalism.
This season, the design team led by Karin Gustafsson began by drawing inspiration from choreographer Pina Bausch, who was a majorly influential contributor to the neo-expressionist dance movement renowned for her synthesis of various styles and her incorporation of dramatic themes. The most obvious reference to the world of dance were the ballet flats that introduced playful pops of bright color to an otherwise soberly restrained palette, while tulles and silks echoed ballet costumes and the cuts of dresses or sleeveless tops radiated a subtly sporty quality while still having that easy sophistication the brand is known for.
THE DIRECTION
Last season, the brand held a runway show in Rome, and before that is has shown in London and New York, when it has held runway shows. The impressive cast of top-tier models make the brand’s high aspirations clear, but less obvious is whether a runway show format is necessary for a retailer whose sophisticated but straightforward clothing doesn’t need to be seen in person to get its message across.
Nonetheless, this New York Fashion Week is proving that showcasing the collections is becoming less and less the point of a runway show, while the celebrity guest list is taking on more and more influence. Sitting at COS were Thai actor Zee Pruk and Japanese-American singer Mikah Hashuzime, and a quick look at the brand’s Instagram proves that these appearances got plenty of new international eyes on the brand. Furthermore, while the main obstacle to a runway show is the expense and logistical difficulty, it’s not like H&M doesn’t have resources; investing in COS in this way could prove to be a smart strategy to build longterm growth.
THE QUOTE
Our starting point was the choreographer Pina Bausch – her work and its dramatic take on relationships. We really liked that idea of relationships and a balance of intensity and softness.”
THE WRAP UP
This NYFW has been tending towards the more commercial, and it’s not surprising that a brand like COS would continue this trend. Nonetheless, it’s nice to see the brand take an artful point of inspiration and fuse a bit of expressionism into the mix, even if appeared only subtly.
