Review of Dior Men’s Spring 2023 Capsule Collection Fashion Show
Paris, California
By Mark Wittmer
Dior Men’s creative director Kim Jones is a friend for collaborations: far more of his major seasonal collections have featured artist or guest designer collaborations than have not. Though often interesting, the rapid rhythm of another season, another collaboration has induced something like collaboration fatigue in many of us. Perhaps recognizing this, Dior and Jones have shifted their approach, with the latest Spring 2023 “capsule” collection marking a change to biannual collaborative capsules, while major seasonal collections will mark Jones-only affairs. Something like a happy medium.
For the first of these co-designed collections, Jones has tapped Eli Russell Linnetz, founder of the Venice Beach-based ERL label, which has quickly carved out a place for itself in contemporary California fashion. The two designers set out to create a collection that fused the gonzo style of 90’s California culture – think lots of retro skate and surf bro aesthetics – with Jones’ contemporary rewriting of Parisian elegance and Dior codes.
The collection takes this assignment rather literally, mixing and matching oversized skate shoes with relaxed tailoring, luxe materials with baggy grunge shapes, Dior saddle bags with gold chains and puffer fabric.
Some smart graphical work was on display, leaning just a bit into logo-mania with reimagined Dior logos though vintage So-Cal text design. Though it might be hard to imagine someone in Los Angeles or Paris wearing one of these full looks, many of the individual pieces are sure to be strong sellers, and these pieces that proudly bear a one-off reconfiguration of the Dior name and logo are sure to be foremost among them.
The strongest aspect of the collection felt like its tailoring, which has always been a strong suit for Jones. But while the suits, sometimes slightly padded, often realized in silk, and exuding a touch of vintage glam were beautiful and felt appropriate for a dandyish night out 90’s, it was hard to recognize how they fit into the collection as a whole. The hats with veils were a lovely touch, but again, they felt like another ingredient added without regard for what the whole recipe could be.
In fact, this lack of coherence and vision characterized the collection in general. It never became more than the some of its parts: skater shorts were executed in opulent fabrics, oversized grunge sweaters got a sparkly treatment, but there was little imagination or thoughtfulness in why Parisian chic and Venice Beach cool ought to meet, and what they could create together that is new and could come from no other meeting.
This makes the presence of the “California Couture” slogan that appeared in literal, physical form written across a few sweaters feel a bit lazy, a bit like cheating – as if the co-designers have told us what their collection is because they haven’t been able to show us.