How Fashions Front Row is Evolving, by Looking Beyond the West and Cultivating Community Across the Arts.
By Angela Baidoo
As the definition of the perfect front-row guest evolves, seasoned fashion editors and retail buyers have found that who they rub shoulders with (yes, the seating is sometimes that intimate) has become an interesting new paradigm. This shift can be positively attributed to the re-opening of China, and the rise of India – the country is set to debut 2 new Galeries Lafayette stores in Mumbai and Delhi in 2024, while its designers Gaurav Gupta and Rahul Mishra were invited to show during the summer 2023 Haute Couture season. Additionally, South Korea’s world domination through music, television, and new-gen multi-hyphenates mean that the front row has come to resemble a cool arts club, rather than the elite Ivy League college it was once famous for emulating.
But what is driving this power grab, and how are PR teams navigating the modern show chart?
Often seen as a reflection of luxury fashion’s prestige and influence, who once got to occupy those coveted seats is rapidly evolving. Now, as designers prep for the start of a new show season, in an industry which continues to take tentative steps (rather than strides) to catch up with the world-at-large, The Impression takes a closer look into how fashion’s game of musical chairs has found new players on the front row of the Big Four’s fashion weeks.
Key Takeaways
- Consider the front row’s lucrative opportunity to build a brand story – and family – which encompasses creatives who are multi-hyphenates, but also specialists across varied art forms, from film to documentary making to music.
- Brands should engage their local teams for resort and re-staged shows, to craft a front row which is representative of the right mix of KOLs, who can amplify the brand globally and aid in the acquisition of new consumers in emerging markets.
- The desire to achieve maximum brand exposure through celebrity and influence during show season should be counter-balanced with traditional journalism in order to disseminate the brand narrative with authenticity and nuance.
Index
- Front (Row) and Centre: The Multi-hyphenate Vs Cultural Tastemaker Vs Traditional Journalist Vs Celebrity
- Screen Time: How stars of the Big, Small and Phone Screen are Making Their Mark
- Adapting to Change: It’s a Matter of Taste
- Ushering in the New: Tapping into the Global and Emerging Market Opportunity
- Fashion Front Row Covets Team Players
Front (Row) and Centre: The Multi-hyphenate Vs Cultural Tastemaker Vs Traditional Journalist Vs Celebrity
There is now equal opportunity when it comes to show curation. For the editor, influencer, celebrity, tastemaker, or K-Pop band member. How the story of the collection is told is as important as who is telling it.
In a digital-first world of livestreams and instant uploads, the collections presented during fashion week are now instantly accessible to all. Often being shared, pinned, and critiqued in a matter of minutes. Making the Who, more important than the How when it comes to communicating about both the clothes on the runway and the inspiration behind each collection. Who brands chose to seat on the front row is critically important, as they find themselves being scrutinized on whether these choices are inclusive, representative, relevant, and authentic. The right mix will reflect each guest’s unique perspective – with some choosing to stream the whole show, others favouring amplifying the most statement looks. Speaking with David Martin, Editor-in-Chief and Creative Director of Odda Magazine, he has noticed clear changes on the front row over the past decade, saying “I do see the faces of the fashion industry of tomorrow taking place on the front row, which excites me a lot. I see how digital personalities are merging their knowledge to become editors, and PRs moving into the editorial world, it’s making the industry become more dynamic, more exciting. Sometimes I stop and observe how the core of fashion is next to the new Editor-in-Chief of niche magazines for example, something I think was less a of reality 10 years ago”.
Showcasing their skills in cultural curation, there are brands who are being lauded for getting the mix right. Thom Browne’s front row, for his first outing as part of the official Haute Couture calendar this July, included members of his ‘Brand Family’. From American and British actors Diane Keaton and Maisie Williams to rapper Cardi B (who won guest-of-the-season for her Outstanding Couture Season run), Mandopop singer and actress Amber Kuo, and comedian, writer, producer, and actor Ayo Edebiri (star of hit TV series The Bear, now in its second season).
In 2023 many PR teams are finding themselves operating with a new playbook. Having analysed the numbers, it has become evident that a single post from a member of K-Pop band Blackpink, NewJeans or BTS, can generate ten times the MIV than a branded post, resulting in millions in brand awareness and exposure.
It should be noted that this menswear season, South Korea alone generated a 297% hike in MIV in comparison to 2022, according to Launchmetrics data insights report from Men’s Paris Fashion Week. This year South Korean rapper and NCT band member Taeyong (also known as Lee Taeyong) was named as Loewe’s newest brand ambassador and sat front row at Jonathan Andersons menswear show in June. His subsequent post at the show and his official announcement of his ambassadorship, both garnered over 1 million likes from his 11 million followers on Instagram.
New countries who are driving MIV include Thailand, who according to the same report “…generated almost 8 times more MIV than in 2022, climbing from 11th to 4th place” in their ranking of top-performing countries by MIV. Which explains the reasoning behind Thai actor Win Metawin (also known as Win Metawin Opas-lamkajorn), who boasts 14.5 million followers on Instagram, being tapped by Prada as an ambassador.
The Italian mega-brand in particular, stands out for their unrivalled ability to harness and secure influencers from the APAC region as influential show guests. South Korean actor Song Kang and NCT K-Pop band member, host, and actor Jaehyun, also known as Jeong Yun-o, have lucrative ambassador deals with the brand (their spring summer 2024 show was also attended by fellow ambassador Kentaro Sakaguchi). Taking an even more progressive stance, Dior Beauty announced in January, Cha Eun-woo of K-Pop band ASTRO as their first global ambassador. As one of their many brand faces, his attendance at the Dior Men’s shows often racks up millions in social media impressions. His Instagram posts from the fall 2023 show in Egypt and the summer 2024 show racking up over four and three million likes respectively.
When China re-opened their borders last year, we saw a marked uptick in Chinese KOLs returning to the fashion week circuit. China’s presence at these events will likely continue to grow, however, what’s important to note is the diversification of celebrities from the APAC region. We’ve witnessed an uptick in celebrities from Thailand for instance, namely stars of popular Thai-Dramas, such as Miles Phakphum and Nattawin Wattanagitiphat, who’s presence at Dior generated $4.6M in EMV (Earned Media Value), according to Lefty data.“
– Anna Ross, Global Head of Insight, Karla Otto
Among the important role of celebrity and the proven brand amplification they provide, there is still room for the role of the editor. As confirmed by Anna Ross, Global Head of Insight at Karla Otto, who outlined their key role during the Couture season “As they’re at a great range of shows, press and industry tend to create the most consistency and volume of posts, with an accumulative EMV impact over the course of the season. We saw press dominate the Top 10 rankings at Couture: ¼ of the Top 30 most influential attendees at Couture were media titles”.
Even if that is a role which has had to evolve, as many have either diversified their remits, or become high-profile names in their own right through the street style scene, they still make up a key part of the show guest mix. Renowned for their deep appreciation for craftsmanship and often encyclopaedic knowledge of fashion show history, they can often connect the threads between fashions past and present adding value by speaking to a broader audience and deep-diving into a creative directors references which go beyond what is presented on the runway.
The impact of influential editor & journalist attendance cannot be measured by social coverage / EMV in the moment, as it’s the long-term relationship & coverage that follows which brands value from their attendance.
– Lissy Von Schwarzkopf, Chief Business Officer, Karla Otto
Screen Time: How Stars of the Big, Small and Phone Screen are Making their Mark
The allure of the silver screen is experiencing its long-awaited renaissance post-pandemic. And, with major motion pictures like Top Gun, and the newly released Barbie and Oppenheimer vehicles, a fresh wave of interest has been ignited in the synergy between fashion and film. The Barbie movie was helped in no small part by the trend for all things Pink (first Millennial Pink, then Valentino ‘Pink PP’ and now Barbie Pink), and the clever marketing and branding collaborations which saw a Barbie Cafe pop-up in New York, her Malibu Dreamhouse become available for rent on Airbnb, and a pop-up shop in Selfridges London department store. The film’s reach also looks set to dominate the upcoming Halloween season, with both branded and DIY costumes a major merchandising opportunity. Securing the star of the movie – Margot Robbie – as its ambassador, gave Chanel the opportunity to collaborate on the costume design and become part of pop culture history. The classic Chanel tweed suit featured prominently, alongside mini-dresses, bags, and accessories as looks reimagined by the house’s creative director Virginie Viard. Seizing the potential of the halo effect, Margot Robbie was dressed in the brand for her global tour and was one of the star-studded guests at their cruise 2024 show (shown, where else but in Los Angeles), among fellow ambassador Marion Cotillard, G-Dragon, Paris Hilton, supermodel Soo Joo Park, and musician Nile Rodgers.
Furthermore, stars of the small screen with their binge-worthy shows (Euphoria, Emily in Paris), have also become a powerhouses of fashion influence. The 24-year-old Lily-Rose Depp – already a household name due to her famous parents – starred in one of the summers most talked about TV series, The Idol. Which had audiences captivated, and thousands of column inches dedicated to the choices of the show’s costume designer, Natasha Newman-Thomas. Choices which were also offered up as shoppable ‘affiliate-linked’ content as soon as each episode aired. Coveting the audiences which these young stars can reach, it was little wonder that Sydney Sweeney (Euphoria) sat front row at Armani Privé, non-binary actor Bella Ramsey (The Last of Us) was at Dior fall 2023, and British-Indian actor Charithra Chandran (Bridgerton) was at Dior’s summer 2023 Couture show. This move by brands to court a new generation aligns with what Founder and Chief Strategist of Platform PR, Marco D’Angelo, has tracked over the course of his 20-year career in the industry, sharing with The Impression “The modern consumer is highly informed and seeks individuality and relatability, finding solace and inspiration in social platforms rather than traditional magazines. Consequently, brands find it essential to align their front row with this trend, ensuring the representation of personalities that resonate with their target audience.” Giving special mention to his top 3 “personalities” which include Evan Ross Katz (@evanrosskatz), Hanan Besovic (@ideservecouture), and Luke Meagher (@hautelemode), who have all been known to discuss young Hollywood and small screen stars and their fashion choices on their platforms.
In contrast to the industry’s obsession with youth, a crop of invitees offered a refreshingly inclusive vision for the luxury consumer. Seen as the true star of Netflix series Emily in Paris – for her styling choices which broke away from the dress codes often attributed to, and for, older women on TV – 60-year-old Philippine Leroy-Bealieu sat front row at Schiaparelli Couture. In keeping with the trend for a more considered curation of show guests, American actor Uma Thurman was at Ferragamo spring summer 2023, Demi Moore, a friend to Kim Jones who walked his debut Fendi Couture show, was at Dior Men’s, and Whoopi Goldberg was spotted at Thom Browne’s show for fall 2023.
The changing fortunes of the pure-play influencer (not taking into account the originals from the Blogosphere, who have diversified into other arenas such as editorial or brand development) are being eroded daily. As the trend for de-influencing takes hold and less-polished social media platforms from TikTok to BeReal make significant gains in the world of social media. According to Lea Mao, Head of Marketing at Lefty “We are witnessing the emerging trends in diversity of the front row. From AW23 to SS24, we have seen a huge drop in fashion influencer’s share (-35%), and talents from the other world are popping up, including Musicians(+11%), Athletes (+8%), Stylists(+2%), Artists(+3%)”.
This is not to say that influencers don’t still have a place on the front row. Over the last decade they have been pivotal in raising brand awareness, and in some cases bringing brands back from the brink of mediocracy.
Influencers and content creators do have a very important role in this industry. They connect the new generations to fashion in a way we don’t, and somehow, they have managed to make this industry – alongside us all – a cultural movement. Of course, I do think….with no content creators or influencers in the front row now, we will lose a lot of what fashion means today. Will this change in 5 years? Maybe, but for now, we have to live the moment and enjoy the beauty of collaboration, and coexist together, because that’s the point, to create and give dreams to people
– David Martin, Editor-in-Chief & Creative Director, Odda Magazine
Adapting to Change: It’s a Matter of Taste
The world of luxury fashion has always maintained a reciprocal connection with the arts, and there has often been heated discourse around whether fashion is itself a form of art. As in recent years, retrospective exhibitions on the works of Alexander McQueen, the fashion house of Christian Dior, and Karl Lagerfeld’s ‘A Line of Beauty’ which tied in with this year’s Met Gala theme, drew record-breaking crowds for the Victoria and Albert Museum and the Metropolitan Museum of Art respectively.
A steady stream of support for the arts has come from all corners, including the Loewe Foundation Craft Prize, which celebrates excellence from innovative artisans. The Hermès opera-cum-immersive art activation which turned its most infamous bags into puppets, and delighted audiences in Los Angeles. And Christian Lacroix, Roksanda Ilinčić, and Erdem Moralioglu’s costumes for the Royal Ballet have showcased how fashion and the performing arts intertwine. It is no surprise then, to see this cross-pollination happening on the front row too. As brands master the arts and add a high-brow layer in amongst the editors, stylists, celebrities, and influencers.
The Spanish actor Rossy de Palma, who has gained a reputation as Pedro Almodóvar’s muse, starring in a number of his films, sat front row at Schiaparelli Couture in January. But the muse is no stranger to the runway, as Palma has walked for the likes of Jean Paul Gaultier – starting in 1994 and many more seasons thereafter – Mugler in 1995, and Givenchy in 1997. Activist and feminist icon Gloria Steinem was tapped by Michael Kors’ for his show in February. The renowned Swiss art critic, historian, and artistic director of the Serpentine Galleries Hans Ulrich Obrist attended the Loewe men’s show this summer. Anas Bukhash, a leading UAE entrepreneur, and founder of the UAE’s first influencer management consultancy was at Amiri’s men’s summer show, and Shygirl (also known as Blane Muise) who is a British rapper, DJ, model and co-founder of record label Nuxxe sat front row at Maximilian Davis’s second outing for Ferragamo.
Luxury brands have always taken to hosting a blend of iconic models, each a symbol of a glorious era in fashion history. These legendary figures, who left an indelible mark on the industry, are now invited as esteemed guests, adding a sense of legacy and continuity. This move aligns with the broader trend in the entertainment world, where a new Apple TV+ show titled ‘The Super Models’ will chronicle the careers of iconic models Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista, and Christy Turlington.
Demonstrating the way in which the fashion show is somewhat returning to its roots as a melting pot of creatives across the arts. What was once a traditional hierarchy of industry insiders is evolving into a dynamic space that welcomes diverse luminaries, from renowned artists to iconic actors, activists, and muses. As the wider fashion universe continues to be led by a blend of multi-hyphenate creatives, and seasoned tastemakers, brands and their PR teams should utilise this shift to craft the most impactful front rows. Ensuring that it reflects the diversity and creative spirit that defines the ever-evolving world of fashion.
Ushering in the New: Tapping into the Global and Emerging Market Opportunity
In a noisy world, attention should be paid to which voices will provide the biggest amplification during show season. It is not enough to simply vy for visibility within the European and US markets. There are rising voices that are echoing from all corners of the globe, think China, India, South Korea, Japan, and Thailand. But brands are starting to take note, which has been evidenced in the way storied fashion houses are re-staging their shows in regions outside of the West. It is a powerful shift, one that requires a keen understanding of the evolving dynamics shaping the industry. And if the missteps of the past are to be avoided – from a cultural perspective – PR and marketing teams partnering with their local counterparts and specialist agencies (who will be well-versed in the power players of the Key Opinion Leaders – KOLs – in those individual countries) will be a win-win situation.
Luxury brands need to work hard to identify the right regional voices who will communicate their message, of craft, heritage, innovation, or sustainability to the right markets, in order to engage the right customers. This amplification has transcended borders, with luxury brands recognising the need to stage their shows in regions that are experiencing exponential growth – whether economically or culturally. The era of the homogenised front row is over. As the Chinese borders swung back open earlier this year, K-Pop also continued its global domination with its fervent fanbase, helping to propel it to the forefront of global pop culture. Couple this with the BRICS (the group of international economies comprising of Brazil, Russia, India, China, and South Africa) strategy gaining momentum on the world stage and it is a strong indication that brands should continue looking beyond the familiar and explore pastures new for greater impact and market penetration.
Chanel’s recent venture into sub-Saharan Africa (a region often-overlooked for countries situated in the north or south of the continent) saw the house opt for Dakar, Senegal for their 2022/23 Métiers d’art show, and in turn welcomed a host of Senegalese artists, designers, and influencers. These included Adama Amanda Ndiaye: founder of Dakar fashion week, and her namesake label Adama Paris, Olivia Marsaud: creative collaborator and director of Le Manège gallery, renowned stylist Jenke Ahmed Tailly, and musician NIX. An ongoing plan for cultural cohesion was also announced at the time as a commitment by Chanel to “…a vast cultural programme that celebrates artistic fields dear to Chanel, including cinema, music and fashion”. Sending a clear message that the house was seeking to build long-term relationships with Dakar’s artisanal craftspeople and leading creatives.
Dior’s re-staging of their fall 2023 show in Mumbai – with the landmark Gateway of India monument serving as its backdrop, a location also chosen by Yves Saint Laurent in December 1989 – was another step towards perfecting the art of ‘How-to Curate a localised Guest List’. Stars from Bollywood included Sonam Kapoor Ahuja (who has over 35 million followers on Instagram), model and presenter Ingrain Dasgupta, cricket star Virat Kohli, Grammy-winning musician Anoushka Shankar, Never Have I Ever star Poorna Jagannathan, British Actor and star of Bridgerton Simone Ashley, and model Lakshmi Menon. The house also used the occasion to celebrates its ongoing investment and support of the Chanakya Atelier and the Chanakya School of Art, whose embroiderers have long contributed to the French fashion houses’ reputation for handcrafted collections. Ensuring clients from India and across the region resonate with the brand for their sustained connection to the country.
During Couture, brands such as Dior teamed with Bollywood icons and Indian stars. Sonam Kapoor’s FROW appearance generated $850k in EMV (Earned Media Value) – With Kapoor’s following of 35 million, where 77% reside in India, her presence undoubtedly impacted her audience.
– Anna Ross, Global Head of Insight, Karla Otto
Imane Ayissi, a Cameroonian native, who founded his label in 2004, was invited as a guest designer by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) onto the official Haute Couture schedule in 2020, with an all-white look from that same Akouma collection now featured as part of the Brooklyn Museums current Africa Fashion exhibition. An industry veteran, Ayissi had already worked as a model and shown at several international fashion weeks, including Dakar and Shanghai, before coming to the Couture stage.
His Fall 2023 Couture collection showcased his diverse take on African design from his Cameroonian-by-way-of-Paris perspective. Handcrafted and handmade traditional artisanal fabrics, and experimentation with a variety of techniques created dramatic textures and reimagined embellished trims, such as raffia bows, on styles for both men and women.
Breaking into the almost impenetrable world of Haute Couture is no easy feat, but the breaking down of those barriers will not only aid in the survival of the category, but invite in new blood, who will be a literal lifeline for the practice. As Gen Z have taken to rejecting ostentatious displays of wealth, it will be important to get this co-hort on-side. As they are set to make up a significant consumer base in key emerging markets and will help brands build their presence in these regions.
These power moves are not just about geography; they symbolize a profound understanding of the potential held by regions like India and Africa, to shore up luxury’s future. With youthful populations on the rise, (70% of sub-Saharan Africa is under the age of 30, according to the UN), these regions are poised to birth the next generation of aspirational, yet informed affluent consumer.
The front row mix is no longer limited to the confines of one continent; it spans the globe, capturing the essence of diverse cultures and markets. This evolution is not a trend; it’s a paradigm shift that brands must wholeheartedly embrace to remain relevant in the future.
Fashions Front Row Covets Team Players
The world of fashion often thrives on the unexpected, and the appearance of sports stars as unofficial front row headliners, has created a moment of true alignment in the dynamics of the front row. NBA stars are becoming fashion mavericks in their own right, with more attention being paid to their ‘Tunnel Fits’ which often push the envelope and are orchestrated by stylists who employ the likes of Rick Owens and Marni to create buzz. This shift is introducing fresh faces to the front row, especially during the dedicated Men’s season. According to Marco D’Angelo, who has been observing the front rows diversification from his perspective within the PR world “Fashion’s front row has indeed started to become more mixed and diverse. In addition to influencers and editors, we have witnessed a refreshing influx of artists, sports stars, and musicians gracing the coveted front row seats. It is fascinating to see how sport racers, such as Charles Leclerc and Lewis Hamilton, are now actively contributing to fashion, bringing their unique sense of style and influence to the forefront.”
Once the more laid-back sibling, men’s fashion month – which is staged in both January and June – has finally come into its own. You only have to look to Kim Jones staging his January show for Dior Men’s with the pyramids of Egypt as a backdrop, for a keen example of this. Led by Milan and Paris, whose tentpole names have chosen to break away from the most recent trend for co-ed shows. Men’s designers are now experimenting with gender-fluid or gender-free fashion, think Anthony Vaccarello at Saint Laurent or Egonlab. Giving the luxury consumer the opportunity to pick and choose from which wardrobe they opt to buy from, and menswear the chance to stand out amidst the fashion week noise.
Athletes in particular, rankings surged from #14 in AW2023 to #5 in SS2024, with fewer than 10 athletes monitored by the Lefty Platform at Men’s Fashion Week AW2023, and that number suddenly skyrocketing to more than 120 by SS24.
– Lea Mao, Head of Marketing at Lefty
The June season, perfectly timed to tie-in with the end of a number of sport seasons (NBA, Premier League Football) has become the official end-of-year summer party for sports stars. And if the growing interest in the outfits worn by NBA players doing their ‘Tunnel Walk’ (which is simply the walkway which connects the locker rooms to the arena entrance) is anything to by, it was only going to be a matter of time before luxury fashion came calling.
Many well-known brand names with a streetwear or directional edge have been favoured by athletes willing to push the boundaries to show off their personal style. Kyle Kuzma, who plays for the Washington Wizards and is known to be dating model Winnie Harlow, can often be seen in Knitted Marni balaclavas and Rick Owens runway looks, both in the tunnel and when attending the designers shows. Shai Gilgeous-Alexander who plays for Oklahoma City Thunder, has worn both Loewe and attended the Met Gala in Thom Browne. And Torrey Craig has been seen in Rhode, Mia Vesper and emerging labels such as the Los Angeles-based Des Pierrot. This turnaround in athletes fashion credentials can be attributed to a number of stylists and digital creators, such as Ammar Multani and Courtney Mays, who are often orchestrating from behind-the-scenes and becoming stars in their own right.
It’s a winning move to invite sports stars to fashions front row, given their broad appeal and ability to create buzz, especially with the popularity of the NBA, the upcoming 2024 Olympic Games in Paris, and the Women’s and Men’s world cup tournaments becoming must-see event television. Luxury fashion houses such as Dior have also invited accomplished sports names such Ramla Ali (a 33-year-old Somali Boxer) to attend their Couture show as a VIP guest. While also tapping champion Italian wheelchair fencer Beatrice Maria Vio Grandis to front the Dior Lady 9522 bag campaign. The allure of having athletes rubbing shoulders with fashion’s elite is a smart way for brands to drive awareness and break into new markets.
Entry into the sports arena, particularly the NBA, has also provided a fresh perspective on ambassadorship. Sports stars who resonate with a wider audience, have a unique appeal that can extend the brand’s influence far beyond traditional marketing routes. For his spring summer 2024 men’s show, Mike Amiri’s namesake label Amiri – whose deconstructed Americana has seen him expand globally – curated a guest list which leaned into the world of sports as Kyle Kuzma, Portland Trail Blazers player Jerami Grant, and Congolese-Spanish basketball player Serge Ibaka were all in attendance. This diversification not only injects new energy into the front row but also paves the way for more inclusive and dynamic representation.
The Future of the Front Row Lies in Diversification
In conclusion, as the front row continues to evolve, brands and their PR teams will find themselves navigating a complex web of factors that will contribute to the perfect front row experience. It’s not just about securing seats for Very Important Clients (VICs), KOLs or seasoned editors and stylists; it’s now become about factoring in a new layer of creating an atmosphere that resonates with attendees, amplifies the brand, and paves the way for a lasting relationship. Each element, from venue selection to brand relationship, contributes to the delicate dance that is the fashion front row.
The perfect guest show mix is a symphony of elements, each contributing to an unforgettable experience that goes beyond the runway, becoming a space where art, culture, fashion and commerce converge. As the fashion industry evolves, PR teams must be proactive in disrupting the conventional norms that might hinder innovation. Finding the right balance between the new and the next vs tradition, intimacy, and spectacle, embracing inclusivity and diversity, and nurturing lasting brand relationships will make up the formula which brands will need to future-proof the front row.
The perfect guest show mix is a symphony of elements, each contributing to an unforgettable experience that goes beyond the runway, becoming a space where art, culture, fashion and commerce converge.
