At Dolce & Gabbana, The Many Faces of Masculinity Are Put In The Frame
Review of Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2026 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Portrait of a Brand, Y2K for 2026?, Character building
Titled ‘The Portrait of Man’ you would have been forgiven for anticipating that fall 2026 was to be a journey through the many manifestations that make up the Dolce and Gabbana customer – the businessman, the outdoorsman, the jock, the suave playboy, or the hipster. Yet, what the duo actually wanted the viewer to glean from the collection was their manifesto for a return to individuality.
A pressing need that has been flagged, of late, by consumers of luxury fashion . Consumers who have noticed the lean into homogenisation (a safe space to steady the balance sheets while we navigate this period of instability) that has failed to justify creeping price hikes for products as basic as a grey marl t-shirt.
But here the call to embrace the individual, and reject sameness, felt like going against the grain of the ‘D&Gverse’. What would have been more aligned? A manifesto celebrating their fiercely loyal customer, a man who has always been more concerned with projecting the brands well-defined aesthetic of upholding traditional masculine tropes than going it alone.
Prior to the show’s start a short film played, presenting their archetypal characters as multi-faceted men in the form of a gallery of digital portraits. Within the collection there was a doubling down on what the brand does best and even had fun with it in some places, think Yeti-like furs, super-sized knits, and a Hugh Hefner-inspired leopard robe. References to various sports including soccer and basketball were sprinkled throughout and served as a throwback to their infamous David Beckham-as-muse era in 2003, when a cast of look-alikes were chosen to pay homage to one of the decades most prolific fashion icons, influencing what men wore during the Y2K era. Speaking of which, the duo’s early 2000s collections must have been on the moodboard for fall, as they made the sartorial argument for the return of the ripped jean, but will it catch on? The answer has to be more than likely yes, as many of the looks, including the military jacket or velvet blazer paired with denim once ruled the style pages – and red carpets – at the time and became the de-facto uniform (i.e. personality) of a generation who will be only to eager to relive their glory days.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Each man that inhabits the brand universe of Dolce and Gabbana had his moment in the spotlight today, as the show notes laid out each look was a ‘a psychological and sartorial self-portrait’ and to illustrate how the designers see their audience (show and consumer), a number of models were planted among the guests on the front row, stepping out at the opportune time to the surprise of their seatmate. The stunt broke up the classic runway format and was an update of the now shuttered Sunnei’s Spring 2023 show, also worth a look to compare how the stunt compares in a smaller showspace.
More of an homage than a manifesto, the Italian brand – like Ralph Lauren and Zegna the day before – have proven they can provide a look for every mans multiple personalities.
