Review of Dries Van Noten Fall 2023 Fashion Show
A Bucolic New Vision for a Gilded Romance
By Angela Baidoo
In a further endorsement of one of this season’s main themes, specifically keeping it all about the clothes, Dries Van Noten’s fall 2023 runway show was presented to almost 500 members of the media, buyers, celebrities, tastemakers, and avid supporters of the brand. Forgoing a livestream in real-time, those in attendance would have been the first to view the collection, with the full video going live the following day.
A novel approach in today’s media-hungry landscape that devours every stream, video, post, and live report via social media. In a small but significant way, Mr. Van Noten is bringing the emphasis back to those most invested in accurately disseminating his brand vision to the fashion – and wider – world, his existing and potential customers, and those seeking to gain a greater understanding of the nuances, influences, and layers that can drive the narrative of a collection, much of which can be lost when simply viewing at a surface level.
Mr Van Noten is bringing the emphasis back to those most invested in accurately disseminating his brand vision to the fashion – and wider – world, his existing and potential customers, and those seeking to gain a greater understanding of the nuances, influences, and layers that can drive the narrative of a collection
Sitting comfortably within the space he has created with his brand, there is always exquisite tailoring, decadent craftsmanship, and above all else, truly wearable clothes that will live on in the wardrobes of those who choose to know and love his garments. The designer has a love for the ‘ritual of garment making’, which often leads with a fabric-first approach.
In the almost 60 looks of today’s fall 2023 collection, there was an encouraging embrace of the beauty in imperfection that gave each piece a slightly unfinished feel. Hems were left to fray with their threads trailing, panels were patchworked together in a skewed fashion, and a high-neck evening top was a hybridized mash-up of fabrics, textures, and surface decoration (think mesh body layered over jacquard with devoré sleeves and a sequin collar) which in any other designers hands would have looked confusing, but here the almost Jekyll and Hyde effect was charming.
There is often a thread that runs through a runway show, and this season that thread was made of gold, which was used to delicately embroider over everything from classic pinstripe tailoring to a bustier. The precious metal was also a feature on a simple canvas trench, demonstrating the designers expert hand at elevating everyday pieces into wearable works of art.
Developing his own take on the modern preppy-cum-casual uniform look which has been seen at many a show over the last few weeks (namely the overcoat and relaxed jean), Van Noten’s collarless wool tailored version with raw-edges, baggy jeans paired with a lingerie set just peeking through, worn with chunky platforms was a masterclass in how to appeal to the next generation, without relying on #aesthetics, fleeting trends, or a heavy reliance on sex to sell. This ensemble may be overlooked in the editorial scrum for the golden outerwear or diaphanous floral-printed dresses, but it is one which works, without having to shout about it.
A bucolic undertone was also evident in Van Noten’s choice of tweeds and autumnal florals, but far from coming across as twee or Lady of the Manor, there was a modernisation that took place, as shift dresses were gathered at the front to create asymmetric hems, wallpaper florals were almost sepia in tone or splayed over a velvet textured skirt suit with a base of chocolate – definitely not your mother’s skirt suit. And a whiskey-coloured set in corduroy made for the perfect casual co-ord with its oversized silhouette.
A bucolic undertone was also evident in Van Noten’s choice of tweeds and autumnal florals, but far from coming across as twee or Lady of the Manor, there was a modernisation that took place
Dries Van Noten’s fall 2023 collection is made perfect in the multiple ways in which each look is and can be layered. Chiffons and burn-outs provide a window into what lies beneath, revealing more colours or textures, depending on your preference. A simple mini pinstripe slip conceals the vibrancy of a gold panel under a sheer veil. At the same time, a steel grey and camel padded car coat is delicately encased in lilac chiffon, and a mini skirt is constructed within a wrap skirt bound together with encrusted gold embellishment.