Spring 2024 Sees a New Chapter Unfold in a World of Seductive Style
By Mark Wittmer
Dsquared2 have given themselves a tough act to follow: twin creative directors Dean and Dan Caten’s last show was a triumphant celebration of their nearly three-decade run as masters of the mashup, a kind of greatest-hits remix compilation that reminded us why their spirit of layering and liberation is more relevant than ever delivered with over-the-top runway energy. Now the brand is ready to show that this look back is a move forward as they continue to lean into their practice of sartorial storytelling.
The Impression’s Mark Wittmer caught up with Dean and Dan in Milan just a few days before the show to get an exclusive sneak peak at the collection before it hits the runway and to learn how the designers are embracing narrative and cinematic spectacle to build an immersive fashion multiverse.
The Catens think of their collections as stories, and this practice has become more and more apparent in recent seasons. These stories center around one protagonist: a sort of archetypal Dsquared2 man, a hero – or antihero – whose journey develops across the course of the collection.
This season’s story is one of seduction and liberation set in the hypergraphic world of Miami nightlife.
As Dan succinctly explains: “He’s kind of like a preppy sporty guy who moves to Miami, becomes a hustler, starts doing porn – and then he has money so his wardrobe gets better.” The opening looks’ bright takes on waspy country-club staples are irrevocably subverted as the disco-fueled glitz and sleaze of Miami begin to take hold – punctuated as always by the brand’s penchant for cheeky sloganeering and joyful powerclashing. Like last season, the show is co-ed, but leans more towards menswear looks with feminine counterpoints woven through.
This cinematic tale is developed holistically across other aspects of the show’s production as well. We can’t get into details yet, but each element, from music to set design, is playfully yet thoughtfully configured to build out the narrative atmosphere.
While it’s always a joy to witness how much fun Dsquared2 allows itself to have – an example many in the industry could learn to follow – underneath the maximal layers is a serious and deep example of fashion’s power to tell stories that defy the linearity of time, and to make people into the person they want to be. Layering together distinct threads of iconic cultural media moments – east coast prep, disco fever, adult film iconography, street style – Dsquared2 uses their rich fashion vocabulary to tell a story in a way that nobody else can.
We’re looking forward to the show.