Review of Eftychia Fall 2022 Fashion Show
Twisted Tailoring Meets Gentle Sensuality
By Angela Baidoo
Taking a cue from New York, Eftychia’s collection was underpinned by a twisted take on tailoring that lends further backing to the rallying call that smartened up workwear – come Fall 2022 – will be firmly back on the agenda. Although seemingly premature, due to the changing nature of living in a multi-wave pandemic, and the relaxing of classic work dress codes, Karamolegkou stayed true to her design aesthetic and brought a dose of sombre seriousness to a city famed for its unbridled creative flair.
How to sell tailoring to the modern working woman? Start with separates, and show that you recognise that today she requires clothes that demand to be lived in”
The collections opening offer focused on sharp blazers that were offset by relaxed wide leg trousers, a combination that will play into the way in which tailoring is styled for today’s hybrid-worker, and in this area Eftychia excelled, because where established brands are pivoting to appeal to a younger demographic by merging with streetwear, Eftychia’s answer to the question of how to sell tailoring to the gig-economy worker, was to start and end with suits that could be worn as separates.
A firm favourite with the street style set, the “Grandpa” trousers in chocolate brown were shown with a matching blazer, sans top – a possible reference to the designers’ desire to strip back “office-based workwear” in her show notes – demonstrating the timeless sex appeal of masculine tailoring when translated on the female form.
The 90s, a decade that has been serving as a key reference point over the past few years was subtly picked up on – although not directly referenced – with cowl necks, bias cuts, and velvet. The waistcoat and grandad collars, particularly reminiscent of Armani at the time, seem culturally relevant once again.
Top-to-toe tailoring and formal skirt suits may still read as a season too soon, but Karamolegkou’s sensual take on partywear was the perfect antithesis to the most recent obsession with noughties-style micro minis and bodycon dresses. The clever cuts of her satin bias dresses reveal just enough skin that played on the right side of sensuality, and again when re-worked as separates, showed how the designers’ clothes are “made to be lived in”, an important consideration for any brand that is looking to resonate with today’s working woman.
A grown-up sensuality can verge on the outright sexy or modestly subtle dependant on the simple placement of a button”
It was interesting to note that the crowd that graced the pews of Eftychia’s afternoon showing remained a microcosm of what London’s creative scene is most famous for, individualism and eccentricity – although that could also reflect the tendency for showgoers to get dressed up in their Sunday best for their ubiquitous moment in front of the awaiting photographers – but for those that may have been expecting a continuation of the playful silhouettes and statement graphics from the brands summer collection, for Fall her fans will be challenged with re-working her new workwear codes to match the energy and independence of the city.