The Cult of Etro
Review of Etro Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Mark Wittmer
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Marco de Vincenzo’s first co-ed runway show for Etro also feels like his strongest yet. Darkly whimsical, soulful, and with a touch of cultish mystery, Fall 2024 saw the creative director achieve a new level of creative freedom and cohesion while still working within a brand identity that is instantly recognizable as Etro.
The collection’s most potent symbol comes in the form of the Greco-Roman theater masks that formed the runway’s evocative set design, and which appeared in smaller form as jewelry throughout the collection. These gold talismans provide a touch of the occult, a bit of dark academia that hints that these elegant dressers may be part of a latter-day cult of bacchus. In this connection, the romantic paisley and floral patterns drawn from Etro’s archives take on a more richly evocative meaning, motifs that may appear in the clandestine salons of a bygone Milan.
Meanwhile, though the colors are more subdued, they work together beautifully. The more muted palette of merlot, mahogany, ocher, and sage also means that the few floral pops of citrine, orange, and aqua and touches of gold are all the more powerful.
The excellent styling creates impactful silhouettes out of soft layers. It’s Etro, so there’s an emphasis on rich fabrics, which take on a simply sumptuous quality as they are deftly combined across individual looks. Highlights include metallic prints on wool, flowing sheers, lush knits, and subtle jacquard and printed leather that instantly suggest a story.
THE BUZZWORDS
Darkly romantic. Sumptuously layered.
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #45
At once effortless and impeccable, this striking look exemplifies the collection’s success at making a more quiet use of Etro’s signature ornate motifs within potent silhouettes and rich material interplay.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
In one word: balance. On one side, there’s Etro – the heritage, the story. On the other side, there’s me, where I’m trying to be an author. To give an interpretation of a heritage brand is complicated, but I think I’ve found the balance. I’m respecting Etro and I’m respecting myself.”
– Marco de Vincenzo, Etro Creative Director
THE WRAP UP
The new era of Etro continues to feel more fleshed out with each collection, and today Marco de Vincenzo’s vision really came into its own. Offering a darker, more seductive vision of what Etro can be, the creative director has authored a rich new chapter for the historic house.
