Burberry Steadies Its Footing As Milan Braces For Four Fresh Creative Visions
As I write, the London spotlight is warming up for Burberry. Under CEO Joshua Schulman and Creative Director Daniel Lee, today’s show isn’t just about coats and checks; it’s about proving that “timeless British” can succeed where “modern British” stumbled. Yet it’s worth remembering: fashion houses don’t turn like speedboats, they pivot like ocean liners. Change here is evolutionary, not revolutionary, no matter how much the headlines demand fireworks.
Tomorrow the caravan moves to Milan, where four of Italy’s biggest names prepare to reveal collections under new creative leadership. That’s no small feat—and what’s fascinating is how differently each house has chosen to play its opening hand.
Gucci, under Demna, is said to be presenting Sept. 23 with a format that includes a film—whether that also means a runway element remains to be seen. Either way, the move buys time. With sales down 40 percent in two years and Demna only just freed from Balenciaga this summer, the brand needs space to reset with incoming CEO Francesca Bellettini.
Versace is keeping things intimate on Sept. 26, a sensible move given Capri Holdings is exiting and Prada Group is stepping in. But the dynamic is complex: new creative director Dario Vitale left Miu Miu for Versace, and now finds himself back under Prada ownership. In April, Prada’s management notably sidestepped questions about whether Vitale was a “trusted pair of hands.” Time will tell.
Louise Trotter, however, has had the rare advantage of time. By skipping both menswear and pre-fall, she arrives at Bottega Veneta on Sept. 27 with the chance to make a fully realized debut. Accessories have long anchored the house, but her challenge is to push RTW forward—and she is the only female creative director debuting this season. That matters, not just symbolically, but because her perspective is needed in a sea of male appointments.
And then there’s Simone Bellotti, stepping into Jil Sander on Sept. 24. His stint at Bally won over critics with sharp cultural storytelling, but the real test will be translating that credibility into sales. OTB has momentum with Margiela and Diesel; whether Bellotti can replicate that magic at Jil Sander remains to be seen.
The throughline here? Pacing. Some houses are sprinting, others conserving energy for the long race. Fashion loves a debut, but in truth, what defines success isn’t the first bow—it’s what comes after. Milan will test not just creativity, but stamina, patience, and the ability to set tempo in a noisy, impatient world.
The trick isn’t just to turn heads on opening night—it’s to keep them looking season after season.
Warm Regards,
Kenneth Richard
Chief Impressionist
