Gabriela Hearst Channels Her Goddess Energy
Review of Gabriela Hearst Spring 2025 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Goddess guides, female-empowered, artisan-made
In an unsettled week in Paris, the rain clouds once again stayed away from another outdoor-set show. This time it was the turn of Gabriela Hearst, who has returned to show in the city after a stint in new York for fall 2024. Opening for the designer were alternative American folk band The Lumineers, representing the perfect blend of rock and Americana.
Gabriela Hearsts show notes for spring 2025 start with a quote from The Language of the Goddess by Maria Gimbutas which said “Maiden, nymph, and crone; life-giving, death-giving, and transformational; rising, dying, and self-renewing”. In using this opener Hearst laid the groundwork for a collection that would remind us all of her “…respect and reverence for the earth and women”. This was a collection dedicated to her dual passions of women in the form of Goddesses (in her notes she thanks all the Goddesses who have guided her through her creative process) and innovation as she strives to remain true to her sustainable practices.
The Goddess of the sea Niamh, inspired the high-low fringed dress meant to mimic waves, Aphrodite came through in the bows of a leather dress, Aurora (the Goddess of the dawn, known for allowing the sun to rise) inspired “Beaded knit cashmere…made from fine twisted silk yarn threaded through glass beads” according to the show notes, and were part of a development of 3D knits recreating watercolours. The chainmail looks which were hand-finished “represent[ed] the fierce spirit of Yamurikuma” and act like an armour. And Hearst’s use of gold to channel armour in previous seasons, had also been translated to woven metal “fabricated from a unique blend of 96% copper and 4% silk to create a fabric that resembles pure gold cloth” and was also is in honour of Fides, Goddess of trust and faith.
In Hearsts work, as an ethically conscious brand, there is much more than what is visible on the surface – or what is presented as a collection. The designer embeds deep meaning into her designs, which is mainly centred around empowering women. It goes beyond mere inspiration, as the brands aim to reduce its environmental impact and support artisans means from her footwear to fine jewellery the impact of each category is limited. Craftspeople are often part of the brands wider team of makers, which could be seen today in the “Let it Rip” dress made up of geometric panels which took 40 artisans, skilled in embroidery and painting, to create the panels woven together for the final look.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
The collection explains and reminds that we prayed to females for thousands of
years. There is a correlation between the respect and reverence for the earth and
women—they’re completely related.”Gabriela Hearst, creative director, Gabriela Hearst
THE WRAP UP
In acknowledging that there is a very tangible connection between the respect and reverence we show women, and how we are subsequently treating the earth, Hearst called on the numerous Goddesses who have influenced all aspects of daily life – love, war, strength, light – to try to right the balance towards both. Finding deep waves of creative inspiration in the process.
