Givenchy Plays The Waiting Game
Review of Givenchy Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
The conundrum of what to do when waiting for a new creative director to take up residence could be answered quite simply by forgoing a fashion show for a season – with all the expense and logistical gymnastics it requires. Yes, fashion is a business and the wheels need to keep turning, but not by any means necessary, and not when there isn’t much to add to the conversation, or even move the conversation forward.
If the pandemic taught us anything it’s that there are multiple ways to market a collection which doesn’t involve a runway show. A fashion film going behind-the-scenes and actually engaging with the individual craftspeople at Givenchy’s atelier – many of whom it can be assumed have worked at the house for decades and can speak to how their roles have evolved in that time. An interactive show where a live presentation could have been viewed through a collaboration with Apple and their new Apple Vision Pro headset which could have been delivered to a select few editors hotels to report on – an actually ground-breaking concept that would have certainly gone viral for its use of new technology, but also for considering the schedules of show-goers and giving them back an hour or two of their days. Or the House could have taken the opportunity to work with an emerging name as a guest designer, something which could have been tested during January’s men’s show. As it would have created a talking point to allow a new talent to interpret the craftsmanship of the atelier through their own lens. This would not have had to have been restricted to the world of fashion, as an artist, musician, or even architect who have their roots in creativity would have been a viable choice.
Nevertheless, another show was settled on as the best way forward in the interim, but there was a distinct lack of a connecting thread to the collection, whereas the men’s show was underpinned by whimsical prints and textured tailoring, todays show was a myriad of ideas which didn’t provide a clear message. Individually the knitwear was the stand-out in chunky peplum tank tops in black and navy blue, followed by the final parade of evening gowns which seemed to lean on the house codes the best and looked more promising. Which begs the question of why the atelier didn’t simply take the risk and create a collection of beautifully constructed gowns and tailoring which would have been more engaging that what was presented for fall today.
THE BUZZWORDS
Direction anyone?, confusion over cohesion, knitwear never fails
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #16
In a collection where too many ideas were fighting for dominance, the knitwear stood apart. In particular this slouchy green sweater with a train! Why no one has thought of this before – in a commercially viable way – is a wonder, lets hope the incoming creative director makes this a signature style.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
In its second showing of collection-by-atelier, the Givenchy C-Suite should consider more expansive ways to present a collection which doesn’t necessarily have to involve a runway show. As after the second-go-round, it would seem seasonal themes are running low on the ground. Let’s hope that new appointment announcement is set to be made before the September season gets underway.
