Review of Givenchy Spring 2023 Men’s Fashion Show
Hard Wear
By Mark Wittmer
While Matthew M. Williams’ appointment as creative director of Givenchy was seen as a way to give the iconic Parisian house – which had felt a bit wayward in the few years since the departure of Riccardo Tisci after his beloved twelve tenure – an injection of street-smart American cool, the designer’s first standalone men’s show for the house may have veered a bit too far into the latter territory, losing sight of what makes Givenchy what it is and why it can still matter now.
The collection was largely characterized by a look toward 90’s hip-hop aesthetics, with boxers peeking out of low-slung, baggy pants, oversized hoodies and jackets, and no shortage of chains.
Surprisingly, distinct hardware – one of Williams’ most recognizable contributions to the brand so far, and one of his strong suits at his own label 1017 Alyx 9SM as well – was kept to a relative minimum, being relegated to jewelry while the clothing was unstructured and simple.
Some tailoring did appear in the second half of the show, with oversized blazers atop slashed-knee pants, and an imposing great coat or two.
Williams made liberal use of the Givenchy logo, but it often felt like he was trying to convince us that these pieces were indeed Givenchy – as if he knows there is no other way to tell. Hoodies that have the right logo on them are definitely a streetwear selling point – one of its defining characteristics, in fact – but there has to be something more behind that logo, and Givenchy has us worried there might not be.
It’s certainly commendable that the designer is willing and excited to push the brand into new territory, but this territory doesn’t actually feel new, nor does it feel like the brand.
Williams and his team at Givenchy already have the tools to create an excellent men’s collection that stays relevant and true to a beloved brand – they are in Givenchy’s legendary archives. It’s very possible that the upcoming women’s collection could dazzle us. With this design vocabulary coupled with Williams’ progressive, daring spirit and interest in contemporary street culture, we know they can create something strong. Here’s to fresh starts.