Fashion Proves Its Power At GmbH, When The Political Is Personal
Review of GMBH Fall 2024 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
The final slot which closes fashion week is often a palette cleanser. After a season of extravagant showmanship or new ideas presented for consideration around how the state of masculinity is shaping up in the modern world. But when world events – outside the fashion bubble, which the industry is often known to live inside for months at a time – encroach on your practice, especially one that can be as light-hearted or severe as fashion, a call to act can go ignored for only so long.
Which is why for today’s season finale by GmbH, the Berlin-based brand founded by Benjamin Alexander Huseby and Serhat Isik, there was an unexpected (yet not completely, as commentary had yet to be expressed overtly by any brand over the course of both Milan and Paris fashion weeks) sobering reality check which preceded the show. Known for tackling political topics – being sons of immigrants operating within what can sometimes be an exclusionary space – the duo have carved out a niche with their brand, which would often pull from their own, and the experiences of their wider community to inspire. For the start of their fall 2024 collection Huseby and Isik used the opportunity to speak to a captive audience of editors, buyers, and tastemakers, to remind all of the conflicts and chaos which are raging as fashion week simultaneously continues on.
The collection itself continued in that same vein, which was to raise awareness and provoke, sometimes uncomfortable conversations. A place not unfamiliar to the duo, as they recalled after their 2018 show titled ‘My Beauty Offends You’, their response when asked the question of whether they were afraid of being political “We answered no. No because we are interested in the political and formal possibilities of fashion as a medium of intercultural exchange” (as read by Huseby and Isik during the opening of their show). Designed (in every sense of the word) to make a statement, strong symbolism and cultural markers were used throughout the collection. The distinctly pattern keffiyeh scarf was used as an all-over pattern for a set of suits in red and green, while the watermelon – a symbol of solidarity during this conflict – was used on the front of a graphic printed T-shirt. And the contrast of a smartly tailored blazer (not dissimilar to the dozens seen throughout the week representing the universal workwear trend) with the aforementioned scarf wrapped around the models head was a conscious styling choice to spark conversation about the contrast with how one of the worlds marginalised groups is viewed.
THE BUZZWORDS
Fashions political power, the message in the medium
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #28
Providing a uniform for those who want to show support as part of a united front during times of conflict, this hoodie with UN logo print is likely to be taken up by those wanting a way to come together around a cause.
THE DIRECTION
The Quote
As fashion designers we’re normally left to express our thoughts through clothing and leave the rest to the imagination, but we live in dangerous times, where precision of words is needed”
– Benjamin Alexander Huseby and Serhat Isik, Creative Directors, GmbH
THE WRAP UP
Fashion is a medium which reflects society, it can be used as a means of control, a display of social status, or to show solidarity in times of conflict. And in today’s show the design duo of GmbH took the bold move to eschew simply ‘putting on a show’ and chose to use the platform they had been given to, if nothing else raise awareness of their own personal views. It will be left to a few radical retailers to take on a brand with a clear political stance, and looks which may prove popular, but may also divide.
How this fall 2024 collection will be received and merchandised in-store will be one-to-watch as upcoming political events will push even more brands to take a stance.
