Building a Life Less Ordinary at Gucci
Review of Gucci Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
With the pressure of the obligatory debut in the past, and with the fashion press and Gucci customer having had the opportunity to fully digest Sabato De Sarno’s new direction, he can now take the time to establish his own ‘House Rules’ and for 2024 (both spring and fall) that entails vertiginous platforms, a reimagining of retro but through a softer lens shapes, a visible – but not overtly so – use of the house logo through embossing, and heavyweight cocooning knits laden with decadent embellishments. That list is not exhaustive, but an observation of De Sarno’s visual cues which run across both men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, as well as his insistence that his clothes are to be worn and experienced in the everyday, will hopefully help him establish a profitable era for the brand.
In today’s show notes the creative director said of the collection “This is my way of dreaming, without hurry”. Without hurry! What shouldn’t be a novel concept, is unfortunately something that is practically unheard of, time (for thinking, feeling, perspective) is a luxury few are afforded at this level of the industry, as the next thing is always needed yesterday. It was evident, in the slow pace at which the design language has evolved from last season to now, (because it’s not always necessary to feed the beast), and even from menswear to women’s that De Sarno is likely to have a lot more to say just in this stage of his development of the brand, as some of the silhouettes and shapes from his debut looked to provide a starting point and have been updated through colour, fabric, or finish. For example the heavyweight fringing of his neon green overcoat was translated in a more effervescent way on a peach sequin gown and was also reframed for day – but it is unlikely it will ever leave the closet of any buyers, other than for an occasion which warrants it – in a new iteration of the twinset consisting of ultra-mini knitted dress and cosy cardigan.
Season one gave us the high-low way to wear Gucci now, in the form of jewel-trimmed tanks and denim jeans. Acknowledging that this is often how it’s done once it leaves the shop floor. Today was more of a separation of the two, where purely evening looks were sandwiched between outerwear-focussed daywear. And choosing to challenge the expected, which the creative director referenced as viewing “things from a perspective different from what is presumed most appropriate, not following the rules” in the show notes, he inverted the typical application of embellishment for A-lister gowns and instead sprinkled them mainly across coats and cardigans, or tailoring. His nocturnal looks were selectively sheer and made creative use of seaming and panelling with tactility added through jewel-coloured velvet, rooted in a loose referencing of 1920 and 30s silhouettes.
Knitwear has also become a sleeper hit in these last few seasons. Working across men’s and women’s they appear (on the runway and in real-life) comfortingly substantial and old-school in their approach. Classic chunky constructions which feel handmade can equally be investment pieces due to the attention to detail, such as the fringed embellishments, that are applied.
The Gucci fall 2024 collection was also the optimistic colour injection that has been absent so far this season. Adding to his Ancora red which was introduced prior to his first show, candy pastels – pistachio, butter yellow, and cloud blue – were coupled with dialled-up autumnal tones such leaf green, and shots of bubblegum pink.
THE BUZZWORDS
A new reality, inverting the ordinary, cohesive confidence
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look # 42
A 2D image does little justice to this modern take on the twinset, as in motion the dense embellished fringing is just one example of Sabato De Sarno’s way of inverting the ordinary to create what is not expected.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
Look at the detail very closely, before feeling free to back away in pursuit of a broader perspective. Capture the extraordinary where the ordinary is expected”
Sabato De Sarno, Creative Director, Gucci
THE WRAP UP
In only three short seasons (two women’s and one men’s), the newly appointed creative director is standing firm in his idea to walk his own path and slowly build his version of the New Gucci into something that will endure and be loved as part of his customers wardrobe for the long-term, rather than as collectible art. Seeking out “small subversive gestures” to invert what fans and loyalists will have become accustomed to is helping to create fantasy, which is based in reality.
