Saturated in Sabato, the New Gucci Is not Just for the Everyday
Review of Gucci Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Getting the chance to put on the show he wanted – following his womenswear debuts last minute change of location due to inclement weather – Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci Man is a passion project which is a reflection of its female counterpart, but the new creative director truly impressed by giving his menswear a voice of its own. In a press release by the brand on the collection there was an emphasis on inclusivity and the collection being for everyone, and in that, this new Gucci more than meets the moment, effortlessly showing how retro references can be made modern when the silhouette is allowed to do the talking – with the addition of a few flourishes here and there. Gracefully fluid topcoats with extended back vents, slim pants with side slits, and embellished cocooning cardigans being a few such examples.
De Sarno is building on the Gucci heritage to face into a new customer, one who is weary of gimmicks and is seeking well-made clothes with a point-of-view and slight subversions that delight rather than distract – this was seen in the oversized shirts which featured half their collars coming away from the stand. Wear affixed if you’re a traditionalist or flying in the wind if you’re of the rebellious sort. Sabato De Sarno is catering to them both in a subtle way.
Colour played a major role in today’s men’s outing, and it is no easy feat to get combinations of rich reds and deep chocolates paired with acid chartreuse right but here in the use of accessories (the large Jackie bag was a smart nod to all the menswear customers who have taken to making their man-bag/handbag purchases from the Women’s department, due to the breadth of choice), top-to-toe saturation, and texture, the creative director is making the jobs of retail buyers easy. Something that will ensure this new direction appeals, in what is still proving to be a volatile market for the luxury sector. As tailoring and outerwear will no doubt be bought in his full palette of winter brights and rich darks.
THE BUZZWORDS
Considered, Sensual, Confident, On-Brand, Relevant
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #50
In 2024 the white tanks reign will have to make way for its bedazzled counterpart. Playing into the opulent energy and recent obsession with the 1% this look demonstrated the way that a seemingly everyday clothing choice can exude main character energy, cross gender lines and be worn for any occasion, whether paired with a nylon bomber or alone with its matching Jackie bag. And with the proliferation of young male celebrities (Kaytranada, Jay Park, and Diego Calva were in attendance) becoming more experimental with their looks, expect to see the crystal-studded tank top go from the runway to the red carpet as this debut perfectly coincides with awards season.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Having set the stage with his women’s outing and satiated the curious majority who were openly querying what direction this New Gucci collection would take, the men’s show was approached with equal parts curiosity and excitement, as the market has of late been split into two main camps – the envelope-pushing experimenter’s or the outdooring-cum-streetwear stalwarts. But here we are seeing a ‘What Men Want’ approach, which involves partaking in fashion and being forward facing, while tapping into classic dress codes that will be familiar and somewhat comforting. The studded creepers (mashed-up with the Houses’s iconic Gucci loafer), MA1 jackets and peacoats will resonate with a generation who remember wearing them the first time round, while Gen Z fans of the brand can discover these pillars of men’s fashion in the same way they are discovering punk via TikTok.
As part of his manifesto – one could argue for both his tenure at the brand, and this collection – there was mention of real life, glamour, provocation, confidence, and simplicity and those emotions and actions were taken literally and metaphorically to suggest a new way of dressing up for the everyday.
In his work De Sarno has talked about his love of his home country – its art, architecture, people, and sensibility – and in his hands Gucci is set to once again be a forerunner of what we mean when we talk about Italian fashion. The love of craftsmanship, passion, and a real respect for fashion in all its guises.
