Gucci Took to an Era’s Tour for Fall 2025
Review of Gucci Fall 2025 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Make it Maximalist, The Eras Tour, Perverse Pastel Perfection
In anticipation of a highly speculated new era for Gucci, it was a case of Deja Vu as the in-house design team once again took the reins to produce the fall 2025 collection. Bearing in mind it was only two short years ago – for fall 2023 – when they were asked to step up in lieu of a captain to steer the ship.
What is heartening is that when a design studio is asked to fill in – seen recently at Chanel and Givenchy – there is an opportunity for some of the unsung heroes of these fashion houses to get their moment in the spotlight, a point reiterated in todays notes “the fashion house is one that has many owners and guardians: craftspeople
and artisans, creative directors and designers, communicators and customers, each with their own histories entwined”. It also opens the wider worlds eyes to the fact that it is very rarely just one man (or woman) at the top making the magic. Today craft in collaboration gave us an awe-inspiring mirrored set where the interlocking G’s (representing founder Guccio Gucci and celebrating their 50th anniversary) which made up today’s runway were also reflected in the ceiling – very Tom Ford. The collection also felt like a thread pulling from the brands most iconic eras, from the retro boxy silhouettes of de Sarno, to the prim ladylike styling of Frida Giannini and the sexed-up rawness of the aforementioned Ford, as well as Michele’s maximalism.
Bringing back the much loved maximalist era is a smart move by the brand in this interim period, as it can act as a litmus test to gauge the consumers appetite to go back to one of the houses most successful growth periods in its history, or to allow whoever takes up the role at the top to bring in some fresh ideas. But what must remain are the fun accessories, something I found mildly frustrating was why only now are we getting an offering of stand-out accessories? The fringed Jackie bag and the horse bit wristlet had a distinct point-of-view and were my favourites from the collection. Long may this experimental mood continue.
As we await the imminent announcement, the brand is in the more than capable hands of the studio, so much so maybe they should be given the spotlight for a season or two more, or at least until a clear direction of travel is decided on, thus giving the new creative director a fighting chance.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
When considering the next steps for Gucci the Shakespearean quote from Romeo and Juliet comes to mind i.e. “a rose by any other name would smell as sweet?” As with this current round of designer musical chairs the industry has been experiencing you have to ask if it is the creative director or the collection or the brand that matters?
As it was, this was a strong showing with retro classics updated in shrunken and boxy proportions and the signature horse-bit blown up and used across necklines or on wristlet bags. It was a distillation of the most recent Gucci era with added sex appeal, but as de Sarno is now looking at the brand in the rear view those who will make the decision of who comes next should take a beat and decide if they will back their next choice or let the increasingly loud court of public opinion dictate future business decisions and the creative fate of the house.
