Luxury Reframed The Hermès Way
Review of Hermès Fall 2024 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
In the Hermès approach to menswear design there is always an inclination to lead with business-first, it is not the Hermès way to go wherever the wind may blow when it comes to creative direction. Véronique Nichanian who has been at the helm for over 30 years knows that with each season there may come a subtle reshaping of the design ethos, but the menswear arm of the brand will always be one that is recognisable and wearable.
What first appeared as minimal workwear, was actually a fully realised collection of both harmonious and contrasting prints and texture. Aligning with the mission of fall 2024 – Nichanian wanting to create a paradox in her work – knitwear came with an added digital dimension to the collections classic sensibility, as argyle patterns were redesigned with a glitch effect, doubled-up in chunky layers, or printed with a blurred landscape graphic effect that will be most impactful when worn as a modern twinset. Outdooring for the 1% was also explored as weatherproof rainmacs were designed deliberately transparent, enabling the wearer to maintain their sartorial credentials, even in inclement weather. While a half-zip anorak in lilac leather is the ultimate accessory for walks on the country estate, or to impress at the office retreat.
The latter closing section played up the houses specialism in precious materials, and as has been seen this season plush textures are what is driving surface decoration. Four key looks which reference and bring the Houses’ equestrian heritage up-to-date – a heritage which is sometimes forgotten, overshadowed by the popularity of its well-documented wait-listed leather goods – were a topcoat, tailored separates, and a boxy woven vest in a rich brown mimicking the hide of a horse. An edit which had room for expansion, and could have been rendered in the collections “pop effervescence” tones of lavender, deep orange, and chartreuse which were used throughout on knitwear.
THE BUZZWORDS
Precious materials, future commuter, outdoor reframed, glitch knits
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look # 12
A pixellated knitwear print, or a hazy landscape, Hermès twinset will keep you guessing, while working together to create a directional talking point.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
A complete collection of wardrobe ready classics is what you can expect from each season of the Hermès mens offer, but fall 2024 saw the creative director play with glitch and pixellated effects to reinvigorate knitwear, reframe the practicality of performance outerwear while still keeping it sartorially desirable and creating a direct connection through precious materials which recall the houses’s equestrian history. So what at first seemed ‘luxury standard’, revealed itself as ‘luxury reframed’.
