Making Light Work of Leather
Review of Hermès Spring 2024 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Among the tall grasses of a spring meadow Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski presented her vision of “sensual, contemporary silhouettes” for the season to come. Meandering through the tall grasses of her set design, it’s important to note how much of an impact a thoughtful setting or show space can have on how a collection is perceived and then absorbed by the guests in attendance. As the heightened temperatures in the city along with the naturalistic stage will have surely teleported the editors, buyers, and stylists to summer 2024, where they could imagine themselves, their customers, and readers wearing more than a few looks from the show.
The opening up of the silhouette, from the back, from the side, and the seams created noteworthy details which created clothes focussed on curated construction. Particular pieces in the show will benefit from being viewed in-the-round, as the initial look of a button-front vest failed to give a true impression of its complete functionality. Case in point, the fitted vest with structured bell sleeves hid a reverse view which comprised of a cropped back that revealed triangle shaped panels fastened with delicate metal hardware. Rendered in both lightweight wool and leather it was an innovate take on what can constitute the modern work wardrobe.
Leather may, in its first instance, be associated with the cooler months – worked into a classic coat or biker jacket – but the Hermès foundation in fine leathers means that it’s only right for the creative director of the house, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, to continually play with its infinite possibilities. The affinity between broderie anglaise and laser-cut leather was uncanny, giving leather separates a holiday appeal when rendered in a cropped camisole and wide leg pants, not an easy thing to do, but what seemed like light work for the designer who has been at the house since 2014.
‘Ribbed’ leather or what could have also been masquerading as a coated rib was a great way to introduce texture into the typically smooth materials surface, while creating a truly innovative trompe l’oeil effect for the shows knitwear dresses and zip-front cropped tops. A herringbone pattern applied in alternating leather and chiffon panels was a moment of genius, and displayed what could be done when removing any restrictions on how and where leather should be used. And a leather short co-ord mixed the sporty with the serious in the form of running short and that aforementioned vest top. Also look to the leather waistbands spliced with woven fabric on full skirts for how to incorporate leather across all silhouettes, elevating the everyday.
THE BUZZWORDS
Lightweight leatherwork. Earth tones. 360° design.
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look # 55
Combining the punchiness of a true red palette, the luxuriousness of leather for summer and handcrafted laser cut-work, this is the ultimate summer two-piece for the HNWI (High Net-Worth Individual) the Hermès brand caters too.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
This was a pointed lesson in true hybrid dressing, as with each silhouette an application across the consumers varied lifestyle could be imagined. Whether at work, rest, or play on the weekend there were looks which faced into them all. Not only that but Vanhee-Cybulski gave us a whirlwind workshop on the infinite possibilities of designing with leather as a meticulous, yet malleable material.
