Dressing The Invisible Man
Review of Hermès Spring 2026 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Aereated leather, sumptuous swatches, the getaway wardrobe
After 36 years at Hermès, Véronique Nichanian knows how to deliver a refined take without the need for excessive adornment. But this season, the question wasn’t whether she could — it was when would we see a moving on from these ideals? In a market where luxury that flies under the radar has become the most sought after, Spring 2026 needed a deeper dive into what the modern man needs from his wardrobe, and what justifies the Hermès price of admission – especially when the silhouettes are this understated?
Nichanian’s answer seemed to lie in elevation through execution. The staples were there — the sharply cut mac, the layering button-down shirt, the slightly exaggerated wide-leg trousers. There was gradient knitwear that read like a mood ring for minimalists, and leather, naturally, took pride of place. But this time, it wasn’t just polished — it was perforated, heatwave-ready, and embossed with scaled, exotic textures that whispered status rather than screaming it.
Still, it was hard to shake the feeling that this collection could have walked off the runway and disappeared seamlessly into any of the luxury houses circling the same “stealth wealth” customer.
Hermès has always prided itself on material mastery, and Nichanian executes with restraint and consistency. But in a season where others are beginning to question the boundaries of masculinity, formality, and identity in menswear, Hermès remains firm in its tried-and-true formula.
Is this about building a modern uniform, or simply selling the idea that subtle equals superior?
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Nichanian doesn’t chase relevance, yet at a time when brands are chasing her Hermès aesthetic then an attempt should at least be made to speak to the times, and not simply where her customer will be holidaying next summer.
And as menswear is increasingly trying to position itself as a space for non-traditional self-expression, the Hermès man remains something of a cipher. Always impeccably dressed, but rarely distinct.
For the customer who wants investment-grade refinement, this collection delivered. But for the one seeking fashion that reflects shifting identities – even at the luxury level – Hermès is still offering little new language.
