Brushstrokes of Genius
Review of Jason Wu Collection Spring 2025 Fashion Show
By Mark Wittmer
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Calligraphic. Distressed. Delicate.
Spring 2025 saw Jason Wu continue to explore and develop the design principles of distress, tension, and the organic that have characterized his last few seasons, but they took on a new emotional directionality through an emotional awareness of a dire moment in global human history and a reconnection with community.
Genocide abroad, fascism at home – there’s much for Americans to be gravely concerned about, and particularly fashion designers, who, as Wu himself points out have a responsibility to address the realities of the world in which their clothing exists, even if many of them avoid it. A sense of anxiety and frayed (pun intended) nerves is woven through Wu’s structural point of view in the form of unfinished seams, shadowy overpainting, moth hole-like cutouts, asymmetrical paneling that echoes an abandoned chrysalises, and dramatic gestural sweeps of inky black courtesy of a collaboration with Tong Yang-Tze. The 82-year-old Taiwanese large-scale calligrapher will soon be among the first Asian contemporary artists to show work at the Met, an event for which Wu will host the reception.
Nonetheless, it wasn’t all darkness and destruction, as these moments of chaotic craft were balanced by delicacy and thoughtfulness. The very presence of the collection, in fact, felt hopeful; the very ability to come together and craft artwork that reflects reality – no matter how challenging that reality and the reflection of it – means we can hope to change that reality.
THE DIRECTION
THE QUOTE
Fashion has always been a medium to channel what’s going on the world. People don’t consider that quite as much as they should – but, this is a collaboration. Fashion is more than clothes.”
THE WRAP UP
Jason Wu has undertaken a few artist collaborations and points of inspiration before, but this one feels like his most personal yet – given both their shared Taiwanese heritage and the sense of personal and emotional resonance in the way their Wu’s and Tong’s work come together. It’s a beautiful showcase of craft and the way creative connection can provide a way forward amid the darkest moments.
