After Ten Transformative Years with the House Galliano Takes His Bow, with Future Plans Yet to Be Disclosed
Maison Margiela and John Galliano are concluding their 10-year partnership, which has been marked by notable fashion innovations and business growth. The collaboration ended with the Spring 2024 Maison Margiela Artisanal show in January, which received widespread praise for its creativity and confirmed Galliano’s prominence in the fashion industry.
Employees at Maison Margiela were notified of the change just before the company’s Christmas party. The departure caps a year of significant changes across major fashion brands, including Chanel and Celine. The separation between Galliano and Maison Margiela was described as exceptionally amicable, with both parties expressing gratitude for their time together.
Under Galliano’s creative leadership, Maison Margiela saw a reinvention that blended the brand’s traditional deconstructivist ethos with Galliano’s flair for grandeur and drama. One of the most notable aspects of his tenure was his approach to the Artisanal line, which he transformed into a platform for experimental fashion, using innovative materials and techniques. His designs often featured complex fabric manipulations and a theatrical presentation, which became a hallmark of his shows. This was evident in his approach to haute couture, where he leveraged technology and unconventional materials to create striking, memorable pieces that resonated with a modern audience.
Galliano’s major milestones at Maison Margiela included several standout collections and moments that captured the fashion world’s attention. At the 2018 Met Gala, his design for Rihanna—a lavish, pope-inspired ensemble—was widely acclaimed and is considered one of the most iconic looks of the event. His introduction of exaggerated runway struts, particularly through German model Leon Dame’s viral walk in 2020, also showcased his influence on fashion showmanship.
Before joining Maison Margiela, Galliano had a storied career with other major fashion houses, including a prominent period at Christian Dior. His tenure at Dior was marked by opulent and historically inspired designs that rejuvenated the brand and secured its place as a leader in luxury fashion. However, his career at Dior ended abruptly in 2011 following a highly publicized scandal involving racist and antisemitic remarks. This incident led to a temporary retreat from the fashion world until his comeback with Maison Margiela in 2014.
Galliano’s appointment at Margiela was initially met with skepticism due to his past controversies and the stark contrast between his design philosophy and Margiela’s understated, conceptual approach. However, he successfully melded his distinctive vision with the brand’s identity, preserving its core while introducing his signature dramatic flair. This balance helped revitalize Margiela, making it relevant to a new generation while respecting its foundational ethos.
Maison Margiela is part of the OTB Group, owned by Renzo Rosso, which also includes brands like Diesel and Viktor & Rolf. Under Galliano’s direction, the company saw substantial growth, with revenues nearing $500 million, driven largely by retail and online sales.
Future plans for Galliano and the succession at Maison Margiela have not yet been disclosed. The company has experienced a transformative period under Galliano’s leadership, marked by his return to the fashion forefront and a significant expansion of the brand’s global presence and creative output.
