Protecting Creativity At Its Core, JW Anderson Is Unassumingly Altruistic
Review of JW Anderson Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
The cats out the bag, JW Anderson is one of the few established names that has the ability to hold the interest, and undivided attention of the industry. We are not worthy of his creative prowess, yet he continues to indulge us with it every season. Unconcerned by the noise of trends, reshuffles, or bottom lines. Anderson moves to the beat of his own drum and we are all the better for it. His collections have an ‘If you know, you know’ quality and should be considered as collector’s items for the days when we look back in 20 years and ask who was really moving the needle in fashion in the days post-new millennium.
The word subversion is an easy go-to, but is not an accurate reference to describe the JW Anderson way, which includes a cross-generational appeal that many a brand can only dream of, considered cool and relevant to a hard-to-please Gen Z crowd. Bags with built-in bumpers in paint-box brights or collaborations with erotic artists (Tom of Finland) the designer has done it all, creating products that always feel slightly off, but it is for this very reason why they are loved.
There is a knack by Anderson for turning the ordinary inside out – blowing it up proportions-wise or suggesting an alternative end-use – which has become a signature, and the designer was one of a few (at the time of his debut) to take the idea of gendered dressing and say ‘We can do something new with this’. Even though, at the time it was radical, now many (well, those who like to have a point-of-difference in their sartorial choices) would think nothing of wearing his frill-hem shorts to a lunch date, which is probably one of the reason he has taken to re-visiting them of late. This time the frills of his shorts have been converted to scrunched-up satin trims matched back with a cardigan forming a knitted twinset, creating an even more polished iteration of the original. This seasons co-ed fall 2024 show also gave an overt nod to a trend which has set street-style influencers abuzz, that of the sans-pants styling trick. But in the designers hands it has been made infinitely more wearable as elongated sweaters (reminiscent of that 2000s favourite the sweater dress) or dress shirts. And for those who wish to provoke further the addition of sheer hosiery – especially when revealing a sliver of underwear – will do the trick, it also proves that Anderson has lost none of his power to push the needle.
In amongst the think-pieces were easily accessible looks that could fall into the category of reductionist, made to easily initiate any new converts to the brand. But there are always twists – extra-long cape-like shirt sleeves, seductively short glossy trench coats, and bubble-hem tops – designed to draw you near, but how each piece is deftly translated for retail is (keeping 70% of character, while communicating 30% in commerciality) what keeps JW Anderson on the must-have designer hit list.
THE BUZZWORDS
Upending convention, body-baring, twisted twee
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #9
Along with several others, the naked torso is becoming a running theme in Milan, as models bare their chests in a bid to place emphasis on the often-singular item they are wearing. Here JW Anderson’s granny knit gets a provocative update with a puffed trim and sheer hosiery, which hints at a new kind nocturnal dressing inspired by the boudoir’s of eighties small screen icons.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
With his personal brand, Jonathan Anderson is free to complicate or simplify his design language as he sees fit, his collections are ones that always draw a crowd, as there is still an expectant desire by the industry to see something fresh and exciting that can often only come from those who have retained their independence.
He knows who he is and the messages he wants to convey, which is why his collections can often be presented minus any theatrics and the simplest of set designs. Attention always goes to the clothes, and in a world full of distractions – even when sitting front row – it is what has seen him survive for well over a decade, because in many ways his brand drives a culture of creativity which at a time of volatility is being quashed. And while this path is not necessarily the one of least resistance, Anderson is showing what can be done, as his brand retains the idea of fashion as a means of fantasy.
