Kenzo’s Take on Tropical Modernism
Review of Kenzo Spring 2025 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Founded over fifty years ago by Kenzo Takada, the brand has been described as “Infusing positive energy and contagious freedom for half a century [through] daring and borderless fashion that celebrates nature and cultural diversity,” according to its current owners, LVMH. Once known for its bold colour blocking and pattern play, as well as vibrant Japanese florals which became a signature, the Kenzo brand built a world around breaking down borders from east to west and became a mainstay on the Parisian fashion scene.
In todays collection, by the brands newest creative director Nigo, there remains an ongoing anticipation for the new brand codes to truly land, as bamboo graphics and cartoon motifs aside there were many looks which would sit within a contemporary streetwear label, as opposed to a luxury fashion house. There were a number of promising advancements – especially on the womenswear side with floral crochet and maxi fringing, which proceeded after the mens looks – in the over-arching theme of tropical modernism – but a focus on developing a few key silhouettes which would be distinctive to the brand would go some way if differentiating this latest iteration from the crowd. There are elements that deserve further exploration and in todays spring 2025 collection they showed promise – from the sleeveless denim kimono-style vest, to the embellished mesh, the seeds are there. And after six shows, progress is steady, but could be further fine-tuned to create a house which once again bridges that culture gap.
Many of the brands that sit under the LVMH umbrella have a robust accessories business, which is what often keeps them going during difficult trading periods, and this is another area ripe for development for the creative director.
THE BUZZWORDS
Tropical modernism, net(ting) gains, louche layers
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #10
Boyhood has prevailed throughout the season as a key theme and the use of cartoon motifs will appeal to the streetwear crowd.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Layering tropical mordernism with both sharp and relaxed silhouettes offered something for everyone in todays Kenzo collection, but in showing the men’s and women’s collections as two separate entities, as opposed to interspersing the looks, demonstrated that there was real growth potential within the women’s category, which will still bode well for menswear if the ideas can be translated across the cutting room floor.
