Ring of Fire
Review of Khaite Fall 2025 Fashion Show
By Mark Wittmer
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Effortless cool. Sheer power. Textural experimentation.
Khaite’s Fall 2025 collection was probably the brand’s strongest yet, and it renewed our excitement about the future of New York fashion.
Not only is the brand by creative director Catherine Holstein one of – if not the – hottest brand in New York at the moment, but it also has one of the strongest takes on what feels like the most desirable aesthetic of the moment: a kind of sculptural, intellectual, effortlessly cool, and subtly sensual post-minimalism. But lots of brands have been perfecting this look since emerging from lockdown, and “premium” brands like Cos and now Calvin Klein are joining the fray among the likes of Phoebe Philo, The Row, Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander, leaving us to wonder how long it will remain the mood of the moment.
Tonight’s show from Khaite was thus particularly smart, as it deepened and expanded the brand’s repertoire, introducing new craft techniques and unexpectedly eclectic sartorial references. Not only did it emphasize anew the brand’s mastery of that aesthetic, but it also planted exciting seeds for what could be the next few chapters of its growth.
With a sculptural, almost armor-like leather top layered with a matching set of opera gloves and deep indigo selvedge denim, the first look set a strong mood of slick, subtle experimentation merged with classic cool as it stalked onto the circular orange runway to the iconic bass line of Massive Attack’s “Angel” played through gigantic speakers. An asymmetrical leather blazer continued the mood, but then thigh-high riding boots and newsboy caps brought in a touch of British equestrianism that formed the first suggestion of new sartorial flavors.
That hint was confirmed as Holstein introduced fiery orange leopard print – which might have felt too loud for the brand in previous collections, but here it totally worked – and even a touch of geek chic through argyle sweaters. Baroque drama made an appearance on a corseted dress with dramatic shoulders that was nonetheless ripped into the age of post-modernism through deconstruction and distressing. Mega-chunky knits felt at once cozy and provocatively avant-garde.
It’s almost a shame that Holstein’s penchant for shadowy stage production made it hard to fully take in all the textural detail of the beautiful textile experiments, but the vibe was just so cool and that we can’t complain.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Holstein and her team impressively balanced classic cool, a distinct sense of personality, contemporary desirability, and exciting hints at how many possibilities could be yet to come. Not only was this probably the best we’ve seen from Khaite yet – both in terms of the collection itself and the powerful energy of the runway show – but it reignited our belief that Khaite is a brand that is here to stay and become a longterm leader of the New York fashion scene.
