KNWLS Knows How to Cause a Sensation
Review of KNWLS Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
At the 7 year mark (coincidentally the number seems to be a lucky one for London designers, as Harris Reed, who opened the week is also celebrating his 7th year in business) the KNWLS woman, whose Modus operandi is a version of femininity which is empowered yet disruptive, is getting a little more practical. Channeling a utilitarian spirit for fall 2024, Charlotte Knowles and Alexandre Arsenault, included a sense of practicality to her arsenal of power.
Utilitarianism for the KNWLs brand was translated as an almost indecipherable embellished camouflage fabric for a matching set and cargo pockets affixed to wide leg shorts and a zip-front mini skirt. There was also an undercurrent of western sprinkled into the collection which perfectly meshed with the brands aesthetic as the washed out colours and weathered leathers lend themselves to the look, along with the buffalo and cow patterned furs adding a tactile edge to nipped-waist or cropped jackets. And if country is meant to exude aloofness then the power “linebacker” shoulders and plunging necklines of the eighties in the form of leather oversized blousons was the counterbalance of “extroversion” to which was referred to in the show notes.
Each season for the KNWLS brand, something new is thrown into the mix, sometimes softening the brands “severe elegance” and at other times sharpening it. Today all the hallmarks were there – the corsetry tie details, the flared leg trousers, the body-baring low-slung fits – but the additional ingredient was a “hazy insouciance”. The opening jersey pieces felt elevated, as a simple midi was doubled-up and worn off one shouldered in cream and grey, panels provided a semi-sheer haze for capri pants and a V-neck top with boning inserts, and a gathered cold-shoulder top was paired with one of the brands signature corsets for the minimum of effort in achieving this level of nonchalance.
THE BUZZWORDS
Extra-verts, bold shoulders, power in practicality
THE SHOWSTOPPER
KNWLs party looks are about hugging the contour and suggestive cuts, but for fall 2024 this camouflage set gives us a new version of the KNWLs party girl, that’s rooted in utilitarian practicality.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Remaining one of the highlights on London’s rule-breaking fashion week schedule, the team at KNWLs are finding the best ways to evolve their brand as it works for them, rather than being dictated to by outside influences. Which has led them to catch the eye of Jean Paul Gaultier and earn an LVMH Prize nomination, and whether the KNWLS customer is in fight or flight mode the team never fail to present a clear message of powerfully feminine clothing for the woman born to disrupt.
