A Sense of Style and Place
Review of Lemaire Spring 2026 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Fashion over style, relaxed dress codes, deep darks
A change of venue went hand-in-hand with an ever so slight shift in vibe at Lemaire. Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran’s usual setting of the brands showroom (often crowding in too many editors and clients, into too few seats) was expanded this season. To a black box-like space with a highly polished floor, perhaps to show the contrast in todays collection.
Not as utilitarian and minimalist as we have come to expect from a Lemaire collection, for spring 2026 musicians must have been on the duo’s moodboard, as tropes had permeated and inspired this welcome shift. Alongside this, the duo said, was a study on the importance of personal style, and in this collection – a western-style shirt set in Japanese denim complete with a bolo at the neck, printed resort shirts, off-beat colours of raspberry and rust, and soft layering will make it easy for anyone to merge their love of fashion and style, as the team outlined via a social media post. Affirming that this has always been part of the ‘houses’s creative frequency’ they updated the Lemaire look with how they utilised heavier cotton canvas fabrics layered on top of textured volume and a slimmed-down silhouette with black acting as a reliable base to spin off from.
Rich darks – emerging as the preferred choice of designers, as bright colours that induce joy seem to be lacking in relevance at this time – and dark shades of vegetable tones were garment dyed in heavy cotton and weathered leather that became a welcome departure from the teams palette consisting of a dozen variations on off-white. Dark red and rich earthy browns were a focus for the mens looks, which when pulled out from the collection as a whole did not appear as strong as the womens, as the unmistakeable level of utility, an ever-present design direction, felt like it was wandering into the world of Carharrt in places, yet it looked strongest when worn tone-one-tone. Small nods to western also helped the brand dip a toe into what is currently trending, without seeming to trend chase.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Here is a brand which is self-assured and knows what it offers its customer, despite what has become a familiarity with the Lemaire silhouette each season, today the design duo managed to harness colour to offer up something new in the form of encouraging their customers and retail partners to buy into tonality and good taste.
