A Flight of Fancy Florals and Fantasy Take Off at Loewe
Review of Loewe Spring 2025 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Hoop-la, floral fantasy, flights of fancy, great artists merch emerges, feathered friends
Freedom of movement can come in many forms, whether it’s easy breezy fabrics or body-hugging spandex to aid in aero-dynamics. At Loewe’s spring 2025 show it was a case of up, up and away from the body as Jonathan Anderson used hoops in the skirts of his dresses, skirts, and jackets to create a surreal spinning top effect. The technical detail also made the each shape feel as if it were going to take flight at any given moment. The notion of which was taken a step further with the inclusion of actual feathers used as the base for T-shirts, tailoring, and trousers – which puts a new spin on the term ‘chicken legs’.
The hems of his opening dresses in pretty floral chiffon were suspended in animation through the inserts stiffening effect, but the Anderson-ism within them would be if the hoops were removable, creating a two-for-one-effect for the days when so much personal space isn’t required.
Despite no major changes occurring on the runway there appeared to be a real symphony to today’s collection as silhouettes were repeated with simple colour or fabric variations. And in talking of symphonies, some of the greatest artists of our time appeared as abstract graphic prints, recontextualised as if they were concert merch. From Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart to Van Gogh, Bach and Frederic Chopin, which may see them find fans in a new generation obsessed with nostalgia.
Two fit-and-flare dolly coats that veered into the world of couture were made from iridescent pearl shells, and will go beyond a simple fashion garment, as whoever acquires one will have to keep it in vault-like conditions for its preciousness. It’s also telling that the shell-like material was selected, as pearls often symbolise the journey to perfection (the shells cultivating the stone until the moment of reveal). However, the designer himself has reached and some may say surpassed that point, making each collection an opportunity to simply bear witness to the inner workings of his universe.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
Included as part of a series of images on the brands Instagram account prior to todays show was a blank sheet of paper with two words (well, a word and number) ‘Loewe, 1986’. What this cryptic clue means only Jonathan Anderson can say, but what it could point to is a fresh start or a new chapter at the Spanish luxury house. This along with the idea of wings, feathers, and taking flight may have been a subliminal message about the designers next move.
