I Want a Boy With a Looooooooong Jacket
Relaxed tailoring dominated the runways of the Fall 2023 men’s fashion weeks from Milan and Paris, so it’s no surprise that within this broader trend came the more focused return of a classic: the long coat. While the look has never really gone out of style, the ebbing of the streetwear wave means there’s more space for a renewed interest in what we might consider more traditional or sophisticated. It’s a timeless piece that can fit into just about anybody’s wardrobe, and it was exciting to see the different directions in which today’s designers took it.
While Jonathan Anderson’s direction of surreal minimalism let his coats stand on their own over bare legs and frog shoes, designers at Givenchy, Egonlab, and Amiri turned up the layering to encourage increased complexity and playfulness in men’s dressing. Bluemarble and Dolce & Gabbana got warm and fuzzy with it. Taakk used the extra fabric length as a canvas for its signature explorations of rich and innovative textural treatments. At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello incorporated long coats into his minimal masterpiece of a collection with tailoring that was both sculptural and fluid.