Lou de Bètoly’s Irreverent Twist of French Sensuality and Berlin Subversion
Review of Lou de Bètoly Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Dao Tran
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Lou de Bètoly, the French artist, has always gotten recognition for her top notch crochet and knitwear, and her signature one-of-a-kind, artisanal craftsmanship. She has a fervent fan club that recognize them as works of wearable art and are happy to represent at special events. In fact, her works have also been exhibited at König Gallery and Schlachter 151, a space that operates at the intersection between art and fashion. Her artistic, sculptural approach turns her clothes into art objects, as you can take from this bodysuit (which could also be read as a minidress by the no-pants brigade).
Her designs exhibit a play with contrasts that is reflected in the name, which is a word play in
French that sounds like deux bêtes au lit, or “two beasts in a bed.” You see her twisting
natural French femininity and sensuality with Berlin subversion, elegance with irreverence,
tailoring with whimsy, a nostalgic color palette in futuristic packaging, all in a coquettish,
artistic manner that elevates it instead of making it kitschy. Look at this sweater set, with the
midriff and mid-calf length, which is at once demure and full boss. While this ivory lace set is
just as much a Lou girl as this black crochet look. The best seller this season, though, has to
be the jean shorts and bra top fit.
True to the brand’s upcycling practices, the pieces are crocheted, embroidered, knitted or
woven from vintage mohair or leather, deconstructed underwear or vintage stockings. They
have nostalgia intrinsically built into them in their materials and process, yet are decidedly
now. This pencil skirt with its reconstruction is not only modern in silhouette, but also firmly
rooted in the modern practice of circularity.
Her specialization on couture at ESMOD and time at Jean Paul Gaultier informs her couture
approach. The very same artist intervention which adds value to the pieces has limited her
production in the past to unique one-offs, but solving that problem now and opening the
selection to a wider offer, including garments that can be produced in larger quantities,
would be a welcome development and growth for the brand. You see it on the runway – from
boudoir to sexy secretary, from art world to night life denizen. You could see her at an art
opening, or her at a night club. She has a day job, and she has a night job. If you can serve
all those people, that’s a great foundation to build a community. They are all different, and
yet the collection, same as the brand, has a very strong DNA and cohesive red thread that runs throughout – it is bespoke wearable art appreciated by knowing women with a strong
sense of self and playful sense of humor.
THE BUZZWORDS
Divine feminine, irreverent twist, artisanal craftsmanship, art & fashion
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #32
If this doesn’t scream Julia Fox, I don’t know what does.
THE DIRECTION
Not everybody leads special events lives. But, for the rest of us, a pair of Lou de Bètoly jean
shorts would turn anything into a special event!
THE WRAP UP
It’s great to see a brand develop beyond the initial art school idealism and vision and into a
viable business with a chance at longevity and scalability. Lou de Bètoly has always been
recognized for her artist DNA, her unique handicraft, her signature works of wearable art.
Now, she is learning how to translate that into a more accessible product for a wider
audience in order to welcome more people into the happy family.
