Louis Vuitton Charts A New Course Back To The American West
Review of Louis Vuitton Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
Menswear can be guilty of being formulaic at times, and this fall season is no different. But enter stage left – or over the Rocky Mountains – Pharrell Williams Louis Vuitton, and you have a creative powerhouse who chose not to buy into the outdooring, quiet luxury, or bucolic living trends that have permeated the season. And like the lone ranger that he is (and always has been, you simply have to look back at when his The Neptunes sound was first introduced to the music industry in the 2000s, the distinctive beeps and zooms were unlike any heard before), he put on a show of epic proportions to a crowd that was quite literally bursting at the seams at the Fondation Louis Vuitton.
Rather than devote his time to following trends, there is in each collection a deep desire to create a narrative, to invest in a story, so that each season has its own storytelling arc and becomes covetable for its ‘get it before it’s gone’ sentiment. And yes there were silhouettes and fabrics that have been carried over, but you can trust that no two are the same. Building on the legacy that he was left; it is evident that Pharrell Williams is determinedly forging ahead in creating his own era.
Not necessarily adhering to a trend, but workwear was an influence throughout the collection. Influenced by the wardrobes formed out of the American Western time period. Sand-blasted denim, rugged canvas utility jackets, buffalo checks, and the classic chaps all came with whipstitching, floral embroidery, and patchwork motifs to further amplify today’s theme. A theme which told a very singular story, and if you were not so inclined as to dressing as they did in the Old West, there were not many options left, as each look referenced the theme – think a classic black tailored topcoat, adorned with turquoise buttons. This may pose an issue at retail, but it made for an iconic showing which involved a look back to America in its infancy, a time when cowboys rode the land and lawlessness was commonplace.
The cowboy aesthetic has been in and out of pop culture for the better part of a half-decade, with The Harder They Come on Netflix, Lil Nas X’s global hit ‘Old Town Road’, and more recently being taken up by Ryan Gosling’s Ken in the Barbie Movie. And in this collection there was a continuance of that thread, but more could have been made of the native nations influence – especially since the plight of indigenous populations is being explored on film, and makes it a timely collaboration. Although there were collaborations with artisans within the surface decoration, jewellery, music, and set design, an expansion of the use of blankets especially for outerwear, was a somewhat missed opportunity.
THE BUZZWORDS
Modern western, workwear origins, creative exchange
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look #72
What first appears as a classic pinstripe suit, employs and highlights the skills of artisans from the Dakota and Lakota nations, as each stripe is made from a series of traditional turquoise, bead, and gem embellishments.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
This season Pharrell once again takes an idea and explores it to the fullest, by bringing together a number of references from Ron Husbands ‘The First Cowboy’ to jewellery paying authentic homage to its 19th century origins, and a collaboration with traditional bootmaker Timbaland, Williams creates a layered experience that makes each collection more of a cultural moment than simply a fashion show.
What was also interesting to note was the inclusion, once again, of women’s looks within todays collection. As the men’s and women’s Louis Vuitton design universes exist on two very different planes, the question has to be asked of whether these few styles will go into production, and if so will they be merchandised alongside the menswear offer as a mini capsule at retail? Or be marketed as genderless? Questions which are not unreasonable to consider should this be a recurring theme for Williams, in the addition of a selection of womenswear looks to compliment the men’s. This will be a one to watch in the coming seasons.
