Out of the Blue
Review of Louis Vuitton Men’s Pre-Fall 2024 Fashion Show
By Mark Wittmer
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
THE THEME
A fleet of illuminated drones swarmed over Hong Kong’s Victoria Harbour, constellating before one of the world’s most iconic skylines to form surfboards, waves, and, finally, a Louis Vuitton logo. The technicolor spectacle seemed to proclaim, “If you thought the hugeness of Pharrell Williams’ debut show for Louis Vuitton was just a one-time deal, think again.”
Williams’ sophomore menswear collection for the house continued to embellish on Virgil Abloh’s foundation of global-streetwear-meets-Paris-luxury while layering in a theme of nautical escapism. Down a runway that was transformed into a beach via real sand and virtual waves strode models clad in relaxed suits, raffia berets, souvenir jackets, and lots of great bags.
While the beachy theme felt a bit out of the blue and not quite connected to the Hong Kong location, Williams and company managed to find clever ways to work it into the brand’s signature aesthetic signifiers while showing off the house’s savoir-faire. Denim or silk shirts featured LV-monogram grids reimagined in a fishing net pattern or fishscale jacquard; Hawaiian shirts were reimagined with 3D or sequined flowers, and the aforementioned woven raffia pieces balanced quaintness with couturism, all worked in with expert styling. Sandals alternated with loafers, both worn with lackadaisically scrunched long socks. Tons of pieces felt poised to become summertime wardrobe favorites that are just as ready for the streets or a penthouse party as chilling at the cabana bar.
THE BUZZWORDS
Escapist. Relaxed. Resort luxury.
THE SHOWSTOPPER
Look # 34
In a show rife with vibrant color, this mostly monochrome look actually felt like the coolest. A beautiful flared cut on the jacket and pants, perennially trendy white tank top, playful jewelry offset by opulent pearl buttons, and a slick pair of shades.
THE DIRECTION
Virgil Abloh’s work at Louis Vuitton laid the foundation for a new class of menswear designers, and we can see now how Pharrell is being influenced in turn by those that Virgil infleunced. We can readily detect, for example, flavors of Amiri and Nigo’s Kenzo.
While it’s interesting to watch this conversation unfold, part of the impact is that, as with Pharrell’s debut show, this collection is almost too on-brand. It’s hard to see what the new creative director brings to Louis Vuitton that its design team didn’t already have before when it was working to carry on Virgil Abloh’s principles and practice – except for the soundtrack that featured two of Pharrell’s songs, which feels like a move that most serious creative directors would scoff at the mention of.
That being said, much of the purpose of these runway-spectacle ready-to-wear collections, and especially pre-season and resort ones, is to frame bags and accessories, and the show was certainly successful on this front. For this new era of Louis Vuitton men’s, the brand as a design house almost feels secondary to the brand as a cultural force, and this seaside spectacle was another confirmation of that new approach.
THE WRAP UP
Impressively ambitious, Louis Vuitton’s first men’s show in Hong Kong was another confirmation that the Williams era is one of spectacle, wearable legacy, and celebration. While the theme, location, and brand progression never quite came together, there’s no denying that the new creative director knows how to put on a show.
