Review of Luar Fall 2023 Fashion Show
Whether it’s the boulder shoulder or the bolder shoulder, it’s on the rise
By Constance C.R. White
Should Raul Lopez, designer of Luar, be the creative director at Louis Vuitton Men’s, and Pharrell Williams, the ambassador? The announcement that LVMH named Williams mens creative director came in the middle of fashion week and, well, everyone was talking about it.
Lopez closed down fashion week with his Luar collection, generating the kind of gravitas and excitement that once belonged to heavyweights like Marc Jacobs and Ralph Lauren, when they occupied the important final-show position.
Instead, Lopez showed his ability to draw a closing-day crowd, and design-wise, meld sophistication with an affinity for streetwear.
Luar designer Raul Lopez the designer LVMH Men’s needs, and Pharrell, the ambassador?
Staged in his native Brooklyn, a favorite point of reference, the show built on past elements like belt details and big shoulders, presented new propositions like even bigger shoulders and managed to make it all forward looking.
You can’t ignore his boulder shoulders. He put the massive pads in shapely, double breasted floor-length dresses. He added them to a camel-color coat. He put them in sporty tops.
Lopez likes neat shirts and ties on women and sequin or satin skirts on men, as he and his cohort bring new meaning to his and hers wardrobing. Christopher John Rogers and Edvin Thompson of Theophilio braved the crowds to lend their support.
Jet black disc sequins in skinny pants and skirts were a clever foil for men’s suiting fabrics. There was a plush, grown-up feel to the evening, made all the more so by the appearance of fur coats and jackets.
Lopez knows his way around furs – or someone close to him does. The bicolor hooded jackets, an opulent shimmery blue black great coat and a cocoon cape in beige stood out. Some of the pieces appeared to be made from sable or mink.
Sports are another constant inspiration for Lopez, which is not surprising given his professional background with Hood by Air. Among the guests at his show was Aerial Powers, a Jordan brand ambassador and WNBA player who has collaborated with Lopez via a Jordan brand designer support program.
She and her girlfriend, Azurerae, were each carrying Luar’s mini Ana bag, one pink, one mint. Lopez designed an off-court one-leg pant, a favorite of the Minnesota Lynx player, inspired by her habit of wearing one leg sleeve and one bare leg when she plays, said Powers.
Lopez has spoken about his hard journey to success and I hope he was on the LVMH shortlist for the creative director post.
I like Williams – his songs, his cool, his approachability, his creativity. He brings a lot to the table. It’s not about him. It’s about the industry’s urgent need to create a level playing field, to provide equity and equal opportunities for Black and Brown professionals in fashion. LVMH made a performative marketing move that marginalizes designers, creative directors and other people of color working in fashion.
Will doors open at LVMH and elsewhere because of the appointment? (Remember Abloh’s almost all-white design studio photo he posted which rightly drew people’s ire) Why not give a talented black or brown designer the opportunity and ability to learn, grow and add value.
Fashion has a troubling history of capitalizing on black culture like Hip hop without making room for Black and Brown professionals to have sustainability in fashion. Why not Raul Lopez, Louis Vuitton men’s creative director? He would be on my short list. And you can still hear from William’s brilliantly creative mind while he is the ambassador and face of Louis Vuitton mens.