Following Bergdorf Goodman’s success, the designer brings his high-fashion vision to Japan’s top department store.
Marc Jacobs has solidified his presence in Japan with a new exclusive retail partnership at Isetan’s flagship store in Tokyo. The deal, mirroring the designer’s longstanding collaboration with Bergdorf Goodman in New York, designates Isetan as the sole retailer for Marc Jacobs Runway in Japan. The move underscores Jacobs’ strategy of aligning with select luxury retailers rather than broad distribution.
Jacobs traveled to Tokyo following his Fall 2024 show at the New York Public Library to mark the occasion. The launch was celebrated with a dedicated “House of Marc Jacobs” installation on Isetan’s first floor, running for one week, followed by a permanent retail space on the third floor offering a curated selection of runway pieces and accessories. The opening drew considerable interest, with crowds lining up before doors opened to experience Jacobs’ world firsthand.
The partnership marks Jacobs’ first visit to Japan in nearly two decades. Speaking on the decision to align with Isetan, Jacobs cited the store’s deep-rooted fashion credibility: “It has the most sophisticated offer in terms of fashion. If you could choose one place in Tokyo, it would be Isetan.”
At Isetan, Marc Jacobs Runway pieces are expected to follow a pricing structure similar to Bergdorf Goodman, where the collection retails between $995 and $6,000, with special-edition pieces reaching $15,000. Jacobs noted that while the business side remains secondary to visibility, the collaboration offers customers a rare opportunity to acquire runway pieces in Japan.
The designer has embraced a rarefied distribution model in recent years, eschewing mass availability in favor of limited high-fashion offerings. “One of the things I wanted to get back to was designing high fashion without commercial constraints,” Jacobs explained. “If you buy something, it’s truly limited. That’s what makes it special.”
The Isetan deal comes as Jacobs continues refining his brand under the LVMH umbrella, maintaining exclusivity through selective retail partnerships. The designer hinted at interest in expanding this strategy to London, citing Selfridges as a potential future partner.
While Marc Jacobs Runway will remain exclusive to Isetan’s Tokyo flagship, the retailer will continue to carry the designer’s mainline collection, including pieces from Heaven by Marc Jacobs.
The launch was celebrated with a private dinner attended by notable figures, including artist Takashi Murakami and Vogue Japan’s Tiffany Godoy. During his visit, Jacobs took time to explore Tokyo, reflecting on his longstanding connection to Japanese fashion culture.
“I know there are Marc Jacobs collectors in Japan—people who’ve been photographed in rooms filled with past-season pieces,” he said. “I imagine they’ll be happy to see the collection return here.”
As Jacobs continues to balance creativity with exclusivity, the Isetan collaboration signals a strategic shift toward slow, deliberate retail expansion—one that prioritizes craftsmanship, rarity, and a deep connection with fashion’s most discerning clientele.