Balenciaga and Margiela lead a reduced lineup amid designer transitions
The Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode released the provisional schedule for the upcoming Paris Couture Week, confirming a reduced lineup and significant changes at several major houses.
The fall 2024 edition, running from July 7 to 10, will feature 27 shows. Among the headliners are Demna’s final haute couture collection for Balenciaga and Glenn Martens’ debut at Maison Margiela. Dior is not showing this season following the recent appointment of Jonathan Anderson as head of womenswear. Anderson replaces Maria Grazia Chiuri, who concluded her tenure with 31 haute couture looks during her cruise presentation in Rome.
Jean Paul Gaultier is also absent this season. The house recently named Duran Lantink as creative director, moving away from its rotating guest designer model. Lantink will present his first ready-to-wear collection in September, with a couture debut slated for January.
Other brands skipping the season include Alexis Mabille, Julien Fournié, Gaurav Gupta, Maison Sara Chraibi, and Miss Sohee.
Schiaparelli will open the week on Monday at 10 a.m., and Germanier will close it on Thursday at 5:30 p.m. Balenciaga’s show is scheduled for July 9 at noon. After this collection, Demna will move to Gucci, and Pierpaolo Piccioli will assume creative direction at Balenciaga.
Martens will unveil his first Artisanal collection for Margiela on July 9 at 7:30 p.m. Alessandro Michele, who debuted his first couture collection for Valentino in January, is not participating this season. Valentino plans to show couture annually going forward.
Designers returning to the calendar include Iris Van Herpen, Robert Wun, ArdAzAei, and Adeline André. Rami Al Ali will make his official calendar debut on July 10 at 2:30 p.m.
Other houses including Chanel, Giambattista Valli, Zuhair Murad, and Stéphane Rolland will retain their usual time slots. Chanel’s show will be its last designed by the studio team before Matthieu Blazy takes over as artistic director in October.
Giorgio Armani Privé has shifted its show times to 6:30 and 7:30 p.m. on July 8. Elie Saab’s slot has moved from 12:30 to 2:30 p.m. on July 9, while Viktor & Rolf have moved from 4:30 to 4 p.m.
Juana Martin and Ashi Studio have been rescheduled to Tuesday at 3:30 and 4:30 p.m., respectively—two days earlier than usual.
Michael Rider will present his first collection for Celine on July 6 at 2:30 p.m., ahead of the official schedule. The format—menswear, womenswear, or both—has not been confirmed. Patou will show its spring 2026 women’s ready-to-wear collection the same day at 5 p.m.