Magpie Dressing That Misses The Mark
Review of Paul Smith Fall 2026 Men’s Fashion Show
By Angela Baidoo
THE COLLECTION
THE VIBE
Fresh Eyes/Same Sentiment
In what was to be a collection celebrating Paul Smith’s tailoring heritage and ‘vibrant history’ according to today’s notes, what was presented would have felt more at home not as a salon-style show, but as a showroom presentation. As a brand with a founder known for his light-hearted way with colour and silhouette, there was something distinctly missing for Fall 2026.
At a time when questions have been raised around the future of the men’s arm of Milan fashion week (especially taking into account that tentpole names were thin on the ground across the four-day schedule, technically five but many leave for Paris on Monday night seeing as the last day is digitally-focussed) every brand on the official calendar has to have a reason for being, not simply for the editors in attendance, but to draw in the international buyers crucial for the placement of next seasons orders. The lack of which can often mean the difference between survival and shuttering.
Tailoring was objectively the focus, but while others have so far played with the category or heightened the attraction with innovative textiles in unexpected textures, here there was a flattening of silhouettes and styling that felt all-too-familiar. The palette consisting of swathes of grey – even when in technical two-tone variations – proved a need to edit down, or make more of, the most compelling looks such as the fair isle knitwear or hand-drawn shirts.
‘Magpie Dressing’ was billed as the theme, but after more than a decade where the likes of Demna and Alessandro Michelle have completely redefined how that concept manifests, Paul Smith’s collection struggled to convey his “joy of collecting treasures…gathering stories and objects”. Overseen by Sam Cotton, the newly appointed Head of Men’s Design, the numerous trips to the archive (home to close to 5,000 garment according to the notes) coupled with a deep dive into show and marketing campaign history and the ‘bohemian world of artist Jean Cocteau’ felt like a missed opportunity to revive some of Smith’s infamous graphic prints as per last season, whereas here, any interesting motifs appeared confined to accessories and a limited selection of jackets.
THE DIRECTION
THE WRAP UP
The partnership of Smith and Cotton this season did little to push the envelope when it came to shoring up the brands future, as all the Paul Smith signatures were present and will satisfy his core customer, but as the Saturday night closing show – taking into account the spectacle that was Dsquared2 the night before – there was something all too safe and expected in this collection. Next season, the duo would benefit from reminding the industry of the brands legacy of quintessential British tailoring and quirky creativity that has spanned six decades, or else risk being lost in translation.
